Why Greece if you ask me - the plain answer is that DH bagged a great deal of 6000$ round trip from LA to Athens! It was a regular weekday when I got a rather irregular call from DH full of glee & plea for a trip to Greece - and for reasons unknown I heard myself giving in to him. And so we booked our 10 days trip - a first time for DH and our kids to be in Europe. With images of the tall columns of the Acropolis, plates filled with kebabs, the blues & whites of Santorini, and hearts filled with anticipation, we packed and waited to be in Greece. Amongst many others, another first was this time it would be the five of us traveling - DH, Rupkatha, Abesh, me and Humphery. Humphery, the little hamster from Rupkatha's 3rd grade who loves to travel, eat and be clicked across globe. 😍
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The Land of History, Beauty and Cuisine - Greece! |
Day 0: It's Always All About Flying
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Europe - check mark! |
Day 1: Life's a Sinusoidal Curve
We reached a sunny Athens in the morning and made our way quickly through the immigration. Soon we were walking towards the metro to board the train from the airport which took us directly to the Monastiraki Square (read at the bottom to truly learn from our sad mishap). About a 30 - 40 minutes journey, the metro sped through the landscape of sub-urban Athens filled with graffitis everywhere. Soon we arrived at the bustling & full of life, shops, restaurants and hotels, Monastiraki square and walked down the quick minute to our hotel for the next 3 days, Hotel Attalos. Strategically located, the hotel roof comes with a bar and a perfect view of the Parthenon standing afar on a hill. We were lucky to get a room on their 6th floor with a balcony with our own personal view of the same - and even better was the brightly lit view of the Parthenon from sundown to sunrise.
Being his first time in Europe, DH was absolutely amazed at the number of people smoking - all genders, all ages (of course legal) and every where alike. 😆 Living the fast paced Californian hustle, we were quite amazed to see people sitting in cafes enjoying their morning coffees and a smoke while life simply ticked by.
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Grub for the tummy, eyes and soul! |
Information: This time we came prepared with ammunition, Melatonin Gummies both for kids and the parents. Snacked, played, gummy-ed and soon we were sleeping again.
Suggestion: in case you do plan to chose the gummies to combat midnight waking jetlag, I would strongly recommend 1 gummy only for the kiddos and not 2 as the bottle says. 2 was a little strong and knocked them too well 😊
Day 2: Ah, But She Stands There - Acropolis!
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The Original Lego at Acropolis! 😆 |
Suggestion - add a li'l sugar to your Greek coffee coz it's strooong - recommend medium sugar.
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Erechtheum! |
The guard we met at the exit was quite interesting. A musician in his time, he had traveled widely in India for performances. He's spent quite some time in Banaras meeting music maestros, learning and making music with them. It's these little experiences that make your life complete.
Information: at the Acropolis and almost at all ruins site, only water is allowed. No other drinks are allowed. Entrance fee is $20 in the summers and $10 in winters. There is also $30 pass which includes a lot of other sites, so if you plan to cover all get the pass.
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Learning History! |
Information: it was a $10 entrance fee per person. The nice lady at the counter gave the kids a 50% discount. The $30 does not include the museum.
High on history, we decided to walk through the maze alleys of the beautiful and neoclassical locality of Plaka. With colorful homes with flowers hanging from the balconies, quaint little cafes and restaurants around - it was finding old Athens amongst the modern day buzz and race. Next we walked to the Sintagma square through the bustling streets of Athens. We walked to the Greek Parliament to see the hourly change of guards show. And a show indeed it was! (see a little video below).
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Yummy at a 150 year old restaurant! |
Day 3: Ancient Ancient Athens!
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Memories! |
Soon we were beelining together towards the site, Hadrain's library built in 132 AD. Destroyed later after 200 years, most of the buildings are now risen to the ground with some columns still standing strong. In its time this library held as many as a whopping 16,000 books from across the world.
Information: the entrance ticket was $3 person. Also, the $30 pass includes this site.
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Run run and away! |
Our next stop was the Roman Agora. Beautiful and rich with history as they are, it is nonetheless sad to see so many wonderful ruins and trinkets from the past have risen to the ground. What appears from the remains is that there stood a tall rectangular building. We simply sat at the steps as different views churned around us - from ruins to the busy streets now next to it, from a fruiting Olive tree to yellow flowering trees.
Information: the entrance ticket was $4 person. Also, the $30 pass includes this site.
Our next and final back in time stop was the Ancient Agora (& probably my favorite accumulation of ruins too). This site hosts the seat of the senate which is the very the birthplace of democracy. Likes of Socrates and Plato had walked those very cobbled streets, a birthplace of thinkers, of philosophy and a promising tomorrow. One of the most prominent building was the Temple of Haphaestus that still stands strong - a temple dedicated to the God of metal and craftsmanship.
There was also a small museum with sculptures and artifacts, a Christian monastery and the famous pebbled Panathenaic way which hosted 4 yearly games all the way from 500 BC to the 3rd century AD. Imagine seeing your kids run on a path that has existed for about 2500 years now & has seen many a strong Greek athletes in its day.
There were modern day statues of Socrates and Confucius, an imagination of two great minds coming together.
Information: the entrance ticket was $5 person. Also, the $30 pass includes this site.
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Greedy on seafood! |
Happy and high, we ambled around the busy streets of Monastiraki and started souvenir shopping. T shirts, magnets and some trinkets down we decided to call it a day. Now I won't be able to tell you the exact cobbled alley, but, can recommend a little store called the K Mpatali Mpatali O store - their prices were reasonable and a lots of memoirs to choose from. Still full, dinner was some croissants and spanakopitas from a bakery a few hops away from the the hotel.
Day 4: When Acropolis gave way to the Aegean Sea
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Driver sa'ab! |
As luck may have it, it was a taxi strike on a drizzling Wednesday morning, so we braved the metro one more time back to the airport to board our 40 minutes flight from Athens to the Heraklion Airport, Crete. Now, the visit to Crete wasn't really in our plan, this was something we had booked while waiting at the Toronto airport. And we were so glad that we had made the booking. We were to visit more inland places like Meteora and Delphi, but, DH proposed and heavy rains disposed.
We arrived at the tiny Heraklion Airport at Crete a little past 10 am in the morning and soon were speeding towards the Knossos Palace ruins and frescos. We picked a rental (Avis) from the airport as rentals works far more economic and gives the flexibility rather than waiting on rare cabs. It was very less crowded on a Wednesday winter morning at the Knossos ruins. We ambled around the 3000 BC ruins and marveled at the restored frescos. The stone throne in the throne room still stands as though awaiting the king or the queen to walk in any moment.
Information: being winter and off season all restaurants opposite Knossos were closed. Traveling with kids, I would strongly recommend keeping snack/light food options. I carried croissants, cake slices and some boiled eggs. Not a square meal, but, enough to keep us going.
The entrance fee was $12 per adult and free for children under 12.
We hired the Kia Picanto for the four of us and our carry on baggages and it was space just enough.
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The Hidden Beauty! |
Day 5: Far Away From The Maddening Crowd!
We woke up to partly cloudy morning and soon were enjoying a cozy breakfast at the hotel buffet. Dressed for the day, we walked down the marina along the tiny boats. Being early birds, we literally had the coast and the marina to ourselves without a soul in site. It was as though time had stopped just a heartbeat for us to smile, to laugh and be together. We walked along the coast back towards the little alley flanked with restaurants still waking up when we came across old stone stairs leading to an old church on the top. Every house, every step, every little thing around us was straight from a book of the prettiest dreams and postcards. Our hearts still aren't quite full of the lovely memories.
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Church of St Catherine! |
Next we visited the the old Venetian Fort, which unfortunately was closed so we couldn't see the inside. However, we did sit outside having the place to ourselves to enjoy the view. Meandered back to coastline, which was now dotted with few more people ambling down the coast and enjoying their morning coffee in the crisp sunny winter morning.
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Pinch me - is it a dream? |
Back in our hotel, we freshened up, packed and tucked all our things in our little car. We trailed back to the restaurant from yesterday, To Limoni and ordered their seafood pasta for two (which easily had enough to go for all four of us) - and boy oh boy, it was delicious; not to forget all the fresh mussels, calamari, octopus and shrimp that came crowing the pasta. On the house pies for dessert, we thanked the lady at the restaurant and were soon back in our cars to explore the Cretan countryside.
We drove through the beautiful Cretan countryside with goats and sheep grazing at a distance and an occasional church or monastery standing alone dotting the hills. We drove through a pass all the way to the-far-away-from-the-maddening-crowd Toplou Monastery. Secluded and quiet, you can almost hear the silence there. The air heavy with incense, candles dimly lit the hundreds of years old walls and paintings. It was a tiny squeeze inside with high chairs I assume only are for the monks to dedicate and pray. The kind man lit the only very dim light there as we marveled at the 700 years old painting on the wall depicting lores of Moses and Jesus. It was mesmerizing in one word! Once we stepped out, we could hear the goat bells ringing in the distance and an age old windmill stood still. One could easily confuse the year they are in in this place.
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It's al ours - really! |
Next we drove through the winding mountainside all the way down to the Vai Beach. Beaches, whether it was the Black Sand in Hawaii or the Blue Ocean in Zanzibar, we've always known are fairly crowded. It was our first when we had the entire beach exclusively to ourselves. Abesh went on to comment that maybe we're not supposed to be there as it was just us - bless him! 😄 Vai proudly hosts the only indigenous date palm forest in the entire of Europe and it was heaven on earth. If you're in Sitia, Crete - do not miss this one!
With that it was time to embark on our 2 hours drive back to Heraklion where we were to board the overnight ferry (almost a cruise ship sized ferry) back to Athens. It was a hotel-cum-trasnportation as DH said. It was quite a fancy ferry complete with a restaurant and fair few dinner bars on different levels. DH and Rupkatha had spanakopotas for the zillionth time and Abesh had I had their gyro sandiches and of course some Greek coffee. I just paid $20 for all of that food. Back in our room, we saw the ferry start sail from our window, a few rounds of Uno and before long we all were fast asleep on our bunk beds.
Day 6: A Little Bit of the Greek Life!
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Row row row you boat! |
We arrived in Athens early at about 7 in the morning. Even though the kids were a little sleep deprived, they were chirpy and energetic nonetheless - bless them! We called an Uber to go back to Monastiraki, where though not our abode for the night, Hotel Attalos had offered to store our luggage for the day. How kind! So back in Monastiraki, we got rid of our luggage and started walking round the square one more time. We visited the built in the 7th century Church of Panagia Pantanassa right at the square. Known to be one of the oldest churches in Athens, it is now a few feet below the current ground level (thanks to all the construction around 😕) and you have to hop down a few steps into the church.
Next we stopped at a local breakfast place, Sisinely right opposite the Ancient Agora and with an undiluted view of the Parthenon. Also, thankfully it opened as early as 8 in the morning. We ordered our usual Greek coffee, the pink grape soda (Abesh's will) and their delicious smoked salmon sandwiches. We spent a good 1.5 hours here just chatting, laughing and observing as the city woke up from early morning joggers to tourists and office goers.
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From Museum to Just Life! |
Next we hailed a taxi to the Museum of Archeology. Filled with sculptures, Rupkatha and Abesh promptly pointed out that almost all dated back to the BC era. Once again beautifully and intricately chiseled sculptures of various Gods and Goddesses adorned the rooms and I finally found a tiny sculpture of the centaur I was looking for (for no apparent reason 🙈). There is a huge collection of gold jewelry, pottery displays and tools used from every day life to wars. After a good few hours at the Museum, we were back at the Monastiraki square to have lunch at the already tested 150 years old Bairaktaris Tavern. Lunch was their famous lamb & potato in lemon stew, kebab platter and fried egg plant with parsley. I can't tell enough of how delicious it all was!
With that it was time bid our final byes to the city center square and set forth to our abode for the night - a little Greek home in Lepakucha. Just a stone's throw from the airport, it was a quaint little home adjoining to the owner's home complete with a living room, kitchen and bedroom. It was very different experience indeed. After hot showers, we stepped out to the shared verandah at the back and sat next to grape vines and purring cats enjoying the sunny afternoon. We stepped out to explore what regular Greek life was like - bought some tit bits at the grocery store and stopped for dinner at a local eatery, Margeti with our table groaning under their scrumptious Greek arugula & parmesan salad and plates and plates of their $3 kebab, pita and fries combo. We called it an early night as we were to catch a morning flight to Santorini the next day.
Day 7: Where Blues means Beauty!
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Everyone wants a Lukumades 😄 |
Information: it's far more economic to rent a car as there are hardly any cabs and the so called airport shuttles cost 15 euro per person from the airport to anywhere on the island.
A true promise, Santorini is indeed all white and blue right from the word go. We parked right outside our hotel, and hopped the few steps down to our abode, the Alexander's Suites. And full marks to DH for this one - we were in our cave! I mean it, a luxurious cave. All of us were in complete glee. The kids buzzed around for a little while and soon we were walking on the marble pathway with shops flanked on both sides. We stepped into a rather expensive, Thalami Restaurant for lunch and had their grilled calamari and chicken souvlaki. Bellies full, we explored the area around more and walked all the way to the old windmills, the palace ruins and just up and down the very many stairs there. We shopped souvenirs and then beelined to the castle ruins to enjoy the sunset. It was quite filled with people despite being off season and very windy. DH clicked away to glory and the kids played their double up seven game.
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Blue and White! |
Day 8: The winds, the hails and then some!
Being early birds, we woke up early to a very windy morning; so much that our cleaning lady told us that all all ferries and flights were stopped - but do we? No! Akib, our tender soon laid out our breakfast of juices, coffee, bread, cake slices, fruits, cheese, boiled eggs and more spanakopitas. Tucked in to our mouths, we all dressed warm with jackets, woolen skull caps and the kids even wore their gloves. Once again, we had the entire Santorini to ourselves as we hiked from Oia to Fira. About 20 minutes into the walk, we noticed raining clouds at a distance - and soon it was close. We luckily found a shed with no door and stepped inside as it hailed and rained and stormed outside. As thankful as we could have ever get, we decided to walk back to our hotel and simply explore the area around.
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The Cave Life! |
Back on the marble path, DH picked a coffee from the Luna cafe and we decided to go up and down the 200+ stairs to the Amoudi Bay Port and back up. We didn't go the entire way and stopped just a few stairs shy of it - the climb back was fun! 😛 We saw this very strange blob of sand, thick enough to keep floating and thin enough to ripple with the waves underneath. It was nothing like anything any of us had seen before (see video below).
Lunch was exactly the same as last evening of kebabs at Laokasti, with the only addition of a handsome slice of Baklava for DH. We decided to spend the rest of our day in our cave - and doing something we usually don't - nothing! A tad weary of eating out, we kept our dinner simple with bread, butter and salami from a Carrefour (super market) outlet there. The butter was so gooooood and that we actually carried it back to Athens with us the next day.
Day 9: More Kebabs, more Calamari and more Winds!
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Cliche but Must! |
Information: the car return here is unmanned and a return video is a must.
A quick flight back to Athens, we were promptly picked up by the hotel shuttle. Just about 15 minutes away, the Aethon Airport Project hotel room was spacious and came with a bottle of local Greek wine - thoughtful and just what we needed! Thanks to the deliciousness of the butter I'd found - dinner was once again bread, butter, salami slices and of course the wine!
Day 10: Curtain Fall
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Meows and Brays! |
And the very last thing before I truly do sign off, all hail the gattos (cats) all over Greece. Stray and everywhere, they are all well loved and taken care off and do love posing for the passing tourist. And though we didn't ride any, we did see some trotting (and an almost runaway) donkeys going up and down the alleys and steps of Santorini - yes, just like in the movie Mamma Mia, for those who've seen it. 😀
With that was our first time in Greece and hopefully not the last!
PS: a little learning lesson from our sad mishap. Day 1, hour 1 our passports got stolen while we were existing our metro. We were about to exit when a group of men said the door was jammed and pretended to help us and in all that fiasco, nicked all our passports. The next thing to do was:
1. visit the tourist police station, report and get a copy of the report
2. call the embassy emergency line if possible to give them a heads up
3. go to the embassy immediately - if you haven't filled all the forms online, get copies of the required forms and fill them out
4. embassies are now dealing with these crimes sadly more often and are able to give a new emergency passport within the same day
Lesson learnt: be very careful of the extremely important things - to the extent I tucked the passport bag inside my t-shirt every time we had to be public next. Stay alert and weary of anyone who tries to help on their accord. Stay away from fiascos. It's better to miss a stop, get down at the next stop and take the train back.
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