India: Where the Heart rests!

Man proposes and nature disposes! And just like that it had been four long years since we'd been to India. After the covid restrictions were lifted across countries, we like almost everyone else we know planned the long awaited trip. Tickets booked with our all time favorite Singapore Airlines, managers spoken to, school contracts signed, suitcases spilling with gifts for folks back in India, we waited with eager hearts for mid November to come knocking at our door. 

Of course I am not going to write a day by day description of the month we spent in India - that would be in one word mundane. However, the novelty this time was that we travelled around in India. And let me now walk you through are little getaways, experiences and the wonderful memories woven in just a few days. 

Words cannot describe!

Days 4 & 5: Roars and Trumpets at the Jim Corbett National Park

For those who don't know this, my DH and son our huge wildlife fans with a special sweet spot for the bigger cats of the jungle. Now, recently my father had moved to the foothills of the Himalayas to a place called Kashipur. The famous Jim Corbett National Park, home to many a wildlife animals like the Indian tiger, elephants and different deer was just a mere 45 mins of drive away. 

A little Chai for my girl!

Our first endeavor was the morning safari which started at 5:45 in the morning. An open jeep awaited us as we covered ourselves with warm clothes to beat the chill outside. It was still dark outside as we drove through the rustic northern Indian countryside. Our driver stopped right outside the main gates of the national park and we all thankfully sipped hot milky sweet chai in little 'kullhars' (clay cups). Rupkatha being the experimental foodie she is of course decided to try some and my cup soon was taken over. 😍 Men sold baseball caps & woolen skull caps (the only souvenirs there) for just 200 INR. We all got some keepsakes as our guide hopped into the jeep and we all embarked upon the search for one glimpse of the mighty Indian tiger. 

These trips last for about 3 to 4 hours as the jeeps noodle through the jungle.  The first day was rewarding and disappointing in their ow ways. Rewarding as we got to see the three different deer that reside at the national park: the barking deer, sambar and cheetal (spotted deer). Disappointing as we did not get anywhere close to seeing a tiger. We saw pug marks of both the tiger and leopard, but, alas failed to say our hellos. DH was nonetheless pretty pumped as it was his first time seeing the barking deer in the wild. 

Having left so early, we had packed bread and cheese and we had breakfast on the move in the jeep. Must say, don't think I've ever has breakfast inside a jungle ever - a certain first this was! With that it was time for us to leave the jungle and head back home. The drive home through the countryside was very picturesque as well. Tall green sugarcane, golden yellow mustard flowers and aged mange trees waved back us from either side. And so was out first attempt! 

Trumpet Triumph!

The following day, we were scheduled to leave post lunch. And our jeep was back at our door at about 12:30 pm sharp for the afternoon Safari. Sunny and much warmer outside, we dressed lightly as we again sped back to Jim Corbett. This time we drove through a different route and I even saw a few strawberry farms on our way. Soon we were at our gate and the guide hopped in, as we embarked on yet another attempt to see the tiger. Just a few minutes into the jungle drive, our driver spotted a herd of elephants slowly making their way towards the road. We stopped a good distance away and simply waited. Very soon a huge herd of elephants, right from a protective mother elephant to the tiniest new born, all crossed trunks swaying. It was certainly once in a lifetime moment for us. A few jeeps on the other side ill-decided to park too close to the elephants and the mother elephant trumpeted loud and chased the jeeps away. All in all, it was quite an overwhelming experience to witness. 

Soon after we heard a herd of spotted deer and a langur (black faced monkey) letting out what the driver and guide referred to as the "call". This basically indicates that they've spotted a tiger very close and it's the yelp of warning to all those close by. We chose a clearing at a safe distance and waited and waited and then waited some more. The tiger soon let out some deep rumbling roars, but, alas even today we failed to see the tiger. It remained what it does best - being evasive to its preys. Little Abesh was certainly a little crestfallen for he had hoped. But, that's the rule of the jungle - it gives what it decides. With that we called it a day at the jungle and bid our final goodbyes. 

On the way back, the driver stopped at his friend's dhaba (small local food joint) - Corbett Food Plaza for some grub. Soon we were sipping from steaming cups of milky sweet coffee. Mixed pakodas (veggie fitters), aloo parathas, gobi parathas, chicken momos, veggie momos and pahadi maggie (instant noodles cooked mountain style) left our table groaning and us extremely happy. 

With that we called it a night. Back in our layers of warm clothes, gloves and caps, we drove back home with sun setting away at a distance. 

Days 11 & 12: For Ol' Times Sake at Nainital 

Grandpa, grandkids and me! It was one of those last moment decided, planned and implemented quick getaways. Nainital is a gem tucked away in the green foothills of the Himalayas with a pretty lake at the heart of it. It being just two hours away and most parts of the drive being through the green Jim Corbett, it was a wonderful drive. Of course, I'd been to Nainital many many years ago as a little girl, and it was pleasing to see that it was pretty much the same - largely untouched by slaughtering commercialism. 

The Sweet corn soup legacy

A little before lunch we reached Nainital and checked into our hotel, Seasons. Parked our car and walked the quick two minutes down to the Mall Road looking for a place for some lunch. I chose Moti Mahal just for the reason for the people milling in and out. Sometimes in life yelp, reviews took a backseat and I just went with instinct - felt fresh and good. I ordered some Indo-Chinese for the kids and me - sweet corn soup and fried rice, while my old man ordered some paneer and rice. This was pretty much Rupkatha and Abesh's first time trying Indo-Chinese in India and boy oh boy - did they love it. Faces screwed as they drank the hot soup and arguing over the last scoops of the fried rice - it was a great meal.  

Bellies loaded, we walked around the mall road and beelined for taking a boat ride on the Naini lake. It's a must do and a fun yet peaceful activity to be on the pretty little boats as our boatman oared us around the lake. The beauty around is breathtaking - green hills dotted with colorful little houses, the mall road with its old British houses - heartwarming. Back on the Mall road, we shopped at the candle stores. Nainital has always been famous for hand made candles and it's a must when you're here. I remember as little girl I had bought a Santa shaped candle; it was rewarding to see my children now choosing candles from the same stores. Bags heavy with candles for us & gifting - we ambled along. 

Nainital - oh you beauty!

With that, we decided to call it a day and walked back to our hotel to relax for the rest of the evening. The balcony in our room had a lake and mountain view. I simply sat by the large French window as the sun set and one by one lights twinkled on the mountain on the opposite side. We had dal, rice and paneer for dinner at the hotel and were all soon in one of the most peaceful slumbers I've had in a very long time. 

The next day was again seeing the sun shine down on the lake, a scrumptious buffet breakfast at the hotel and saying bye bye to the timeless Nainital. Poor Abesh fell a little sick pretty soon into the drive thanks to the snaking roads. Soon he slept and the three of us chatted all the way back home. This trip will always be very close to my heart! (leaving with a wish to be back with DH one day).

Day 21: Dolls, Planets and Church Bells at Kolkata

Now one can easily spend whole day, a whole week and for that even a whole month exploring Kolkata - the city of joy! Our days are usually very filled with relatives and friends. Nonetheless, my DH ensured that we squeeze in an afternoon to explore Kolkata a bit. This time DH took the role of our tour guide and walked the over excited kids to the metro station to ride in Kolkata metro. Given the traffic otherwise, this most of the times is the best and fastest way to get around. 

Let's Play Dolls!

Our first stop was the Nehru Children's Museum. The tickets costed us just $1 for the five of us (DH, kids, DH's father and me). The museum is home to hundreds of  dolls from all over the world. Some of the dolls we could see are decades old. They have an entire section with dolls displaying the story lines of the India epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata. 

Next, we walked over to the Nadan Film Center and strolled around for a while. We didn't watch any movies or anything - but its a beautiful place to hang out and spend time. The grown ups had some good tea from a street vendor as the kids ran around the fountains and parks there. 

There was absolutely no way we were missing something from our own childhood memoirs - the Birla Planetarium. Again, this place is flushed with childhood memories as this was the first ever planetarium I had ever been to as a kid. Being back here our own kids meant a great deal to both DH and me. Seated inside, we travelled through the universe understanding the big bang, dinosaur extinction and how we can all together make earth a better planet for us. 

This place never gets old!

This is when we took a big risk and stopped at a street vendor selling phuchkas (semolina hollow balls filled with spiced potato and minty-tamarind water). In an ideal world, I wouldn't really let my kids eat from a street vendor, but, kids' big endearing eyes and my instinct got the better of me; and lo, there they were holding little leaf bowls and munching on phuchkas. Bless their strong tummies and they walked away with nothing but, yummy taste! 😊

And finally we were at our last stop for the evening, the St. Paul's Cathedral. Built in the 1830's, it is one of the most iconic places to visit when in Kolkata. Sombre, peaceful and filled beautiful carving and sculptures from the British era - it was very refreshing after all the buzz and excitement from the day. Christmas being around the corner, we even saw some children practicing a play depicting the birth of Christ. 

With that we decided to call it a day and hailed a yellow taxi all the way home! 

Days 22 & 23-cum-Curtain Fall: Back in Time at Etachuna Rajbari

I was still lazing at my father's home when my DH called to tell me about the unheard of Etachuna Rajbari (Etachuna Landlord's House). I quickly googled it and visited their website to see that this place promised an experience like no other. And truly it was so! Just two-and-a-half-hours drive away from Kolkata, the Rajbari is located in the countryside and far away from hustle bustle of they city. 

Information: the rooms cost anything between 3500 INR to 5000 INR per night depending upon the kind of room chosen. This includes a tour of the property and a little glimpse of the history of the Rajbari. Food is additional. It's 750 INR person for vegetarian lunch, dinner, morning tea (next day) and breakfast (next day) - note: they serve more that enough. Fish/chicken/mutton can be pre ordered at additional costs. Evening tea, coffee and snacks can also be ordered at additional costs. 

Suggestion: I would strongly recommend living on the first floor as the rooms are much more beautiful, specious and ornate. 

Yummy yummy in my tummy!

We left post breakfast as we had to get there before lunch time. It was a smooth drive and strangely, the parents slept almost all thru the drive while the kids chatted and played away. As our car drove into the Rajbari's driveway, it was like stepping back two hundred years in time. It's regal, it's pristine and it's charming - yes, indeed that's what it was. We were welcomed with fresh lemonade and a local village girl walked us thru hand made nick-nacks. Bell boys carried our luggage to our rooms (we were on the first floor & my in-laws on the ground floor). We freshened up quick and trotted over to the dining area where a meal for the kings awaited. Luchi (fried tortillas), rice, dal (lentil soup), veggie curries and dessert. 

My DH really wanted a royal photo-shoot and so we all dressed up in Indian clothes and obliged him. 😀 At 4:00 pm we were met by a local villager who was our guide for the next hour, as he walked a few of us though the property. It was a bit of a marketing about the property and what it offers along with some history of how they were actually looters from the Western Ghats who settled here in Bengal to become landlords later on. There were two must-not-miss things to see: one, the rooftop which gives a 360 degree birds eye view of the village around; and two, the nachghar (court dancers' room) - complete with its colossal chandelier, musical instruments from two hundred years age and a heavy sword which must have drawn many a blood. 

Suggestion: it's not a must and no one will really ask for it, but, it's good courtesy  to tip all people like guides, bell boys, etc. And tip then and there for the person serving today might not be serving tomorrow. 

The Pondering Venue!

Post that, we enjoyed the sandhya aarati (evening prayer ceremony) at the in house temple and then ambled to the bonfire area. It was a cold December winter evening and it was sublime to be welcomed by a crackling fire accompanied with cups of milky sweet coffee and battered fired fish. Churning in to the magical evening was a local villager playing evening melodies on the flute - oh! how I wish even life had a remote with a pause key to press. Post that we hung around at the table tennis board and chess room playing and having a marvelous time. Friendly and chirpy little Rupkatha made a little friend - a little girl of Indian decent all the way from Abu Dhabi. The three kids got along really well. 

Dinner was also yet another king's meal with pulao (spiced rice), dal (lentil soup), roti (whole wheat tortillas), veggie curries and dessert. Back in our room, we climbed on the bed that could easily fit a small army and fell into a soundless sleep. The vegetables are locally sourced and are specific to the season and the availability on that particular day giving us nibblers a unique farm-to-table experience. 

The next morning, we were awakened by loud wake up call serving tea (a tad too loud if I were asked) and the beautiful melodious notes coming from the flute. We woke to hot cups of tea, freshened up and made our way to breakfast. Rupkatha's little friend even gave her a gift as we munched on our breakfast of luchi (fried tortillas), roti (whole wheat tortillas), fried egg plant, potato curry and dessert. We did some shopping - buying jewelry, pen stands, bags made by the local villagers. Luckily we even found a magnet to go on our over loaded magnet board. 😄

And with that, it was time to say bye bye to being in the 1800's and come back to the year 2022! Until again, Rajbari. 

From the years yester!