The 'Unexplainable' Chile

Chile: The Hidden Gem

The 'unexplainable' Chile!

Why Chile you ask? 

And to answer the first question in your mind, it's pronounced Chee-lay if you go for the traditional way. One of Abesh's best buddy's family hails from Chile and after hearing of all the stories, the country beckoned us more than the others. It was one of those vacations that don't really make it to the top of the bucket list but somehow happen plain coz it's meant to be. And hence we packed for the land of the abundant natural variance and beauty, and cultural plethora it had to offer.  

Day 0: Playing touch tag with airports!

It's always, always the day of flying! Ha ha! Well, this one may daresay say even had a day -1 as we started on a Tuesday evening for our drive to LA to halt at my friend's house for the night. Where would we be without you, Richa! 

Post some LATAM flight rescheduling, we were in our Uber at 7:30 in the morning for our flight to Santiago with a stop in Atlanta. Lucky for the kids (and more so the parents), even the flight from LA to Atlanta came with an entertainment system as the kids happily watched Bad Guys 2 munching on packed lunch from Cava. 

A little strolling, giggling and watching our plane get ready, soon we were boarding our flight at Atlanta all the way to Santiago. One more movie and in-flight dinner (the options were fairly decent) we all slept soon. Woke up to being served some cheese and egg calzone and strawberry yogurt for breakfast, we were soon landing in Santiago the next day. 

Day 1: Say yay for Chee-Lay (Chile) 

Once at the international terminal of the Arturo Merino Benitez International Airport in Santiago, we were making our way very quickly through the immigration, grabbing our luggage, got some local currency and soon were walking over to the domestic terminal for our flight to the El Lao Airport at Calama, closest airport to the famous Atacama desert - the driest place on earth.  

Information - the walk between the two terminals is just 5 minutes so there would be no need of any taxi. Just hop!

Tired, bodies going a tad wonky at the 5 hours difference we were somehow all awake and excited. We checked in our luggage and then trudged to an eatery called, Loyola at the domestic terminal. And that's when we realized eating out in Chile ain’t going to come cheap. It was mostly Americanized Chilean food but nothing like hot grub and coffee when you need it the most. 

Information: you need to buy water in restaurants in Chile so either you take your own bottle or just order a drink, which you anyway might. A small bottle of water is like $2-4 depending on where you're eating. 

A little waiting, a little browsing at the stores, a little reading, a little chatting - we were finally on our last flight for this leg of the journey. DH, Abesh and me were soon snoring but Rupkatha unicorned into her books. LATAM flights offer drinks and a snack, a small but a gesture that always makes the flyer happy. Little joys of life! Soon we were at the El Loa Airport at Calama and were getting our car from Avis. 

Dry is an understatement!

Cruising towards the driest place on earth, the Atacama Desert, thrilling it was. Our abode for the next 3 nights was a lovely cozy traditional adobe style home at the San Pedro de Atacama, a tiny oasis of life in a desert which otherwise hosts none. Our Casa Llareta even came with a bunk bed much to the glee of the kids. We made a quick dash to a local small supermarket, Valimport Supermarket. Homemade meals followed from eggs and toast for breakfast to pasta or sandwiches and roasted vegetables and sausage for dinners and lunches. 

And with that we called it a night on our first night in Chile.

Day 2: Moon Face and Salty Flats! 

Slumbered, rejuvenated, bellies full we drove the quick 10 minutes to the entrance of the Vale de la Luna (Valley of the Moon). Did I hear you think why the name? It's coz research suggests that the terrain in this valley is the closest kin earth has to the terrain on the moon. I guess this is the closest I would ever get to walking on the moon! 

Information: in Atacama, all park tickets must be bought earlier and online. It could be a pass for the day or even timed entry for the day and hour. And each park (like Vale de la Luna, Laguna Chaxa, Pietra Rojas) has its own ticket of course.

Valley of the moon

Our first halt was the Duna Mayor offering some sandy but not very steep hikes through the terrain. Unlike in the States, hikers cannot climb the sand dunes leaving them pristine and perfect for the eye. A special mention to the hay and mud ranger stations and the wonderful rangers who despite the language barrier try their best to tell you facts, like the salt in this valley has lithium beneath and therefore can't be eaten or like we were literally at a handshaking distance from many a volcano, like the Lascar. We even braved a hike along steep rocky mountain sides, one certainly not for the weak hearted. 

A ranger station in Atacama

Next, we stopped at Achaches. Rupkatha and I skipped on the small hike while boys bronzed a tad more on the sandy trails. We drove some more along the gravely road in the vale de la Luna to the last stop, The Three Marys, three sand towers watching over the dry valley protecting it. Post that it was time for a U-turn and we bid adieu to the Vale. A quick stop at the supermarket once again, we were soon munching chicken sandwiches and what nots back home.

The mid of November hosts the fag end of springtime here in the Atacama and though not sweltering hot, the sun and the dryness can do you in during the middle of the day. Rested and rejuvenated, we again drove out to the Lagoona Chaxa in the late afternoon. Extremely salty water lagoons hosting the flamingos. 

A scarce life in Atacama

As you get closer, the terrain is carpeted with pristine sparkly white stretched - snow if your first guess but no, it's all salt, salt and salt - the famous salt flats of the Atacama. The roads all around great and very well maintained with the drives smooth. Off the highway and towards the visitor center might be a little gravely but easy to drive on nonetheless. 

Information: at most parks you'll be asked to reverse park. It's an evacuation step in case one of the rather short-tempered volcanoes around loses its cool. (Rupkatha wasn't happy about this).

It was early evening, so we had the good luck of seeing many a flamingo flying to huddle together for the night. We hiked on the trail coated with salt crystals glistening in the evening sun, saw a tiny lagoon full of small, tiniest shrimps and flamingos - an evening to remember indeed! DH went into his photography mode as the kids and I meandered on the trail and sat to soak in the beauty around.

Back in the town, we chose a Chilean restaurant, La Pica 'Da La Indio and were soon sipping Pisco sours (made from the local Andean alcohol, Pisca), mango juice and lemonades (as per our ages). Dinner was Lomo Saltado (steak cooked raw with French fries and rice), Tabla India (French fries with different meats and onions) and Salmon steak (the fattest steak you can imagine). Chilean are hearty with their portions so of course we ended up with two doggy bags to go. And with that it was yet another peaceful night.

Day 3: Home Sweet Home 

DH left at 7 in the morning with an agency for a day of bumpy roads, adventures and what nots. The kids and I had the day to ourselves and at home, it is what is known as 'chill at the hotel'. We just plain slept in, lazed and relaxed at home, with lunch being pasta, salad and sausages. Soon DH was knocking the door in the afternoon and after a quick exchange of notes from the day, we were soon parking at the only paid public parking on Calle Tocopilla (1000 Chilean pesos, $1.10 approx., per hour as of 2025). 

Iglesia de San Pedro

We ambled along the dusty but pretty streets of San Pedro de Atecama and were soon at the Igleias the San Pedro, a more than 500 years old church from the 1500s. Made of wood, it still holds the original structure. We strolled through a handicraft market and through artesian markets selling all kinds of souvenirs and wares. Bags heavier, hearts happier and wallets lighter, we once again made it to the restaurant, La Pica 'Da La Indio. DH and I shared a rather interesting chicken salad (it came with chicken wrapped and baked in tortillas) and kids shared the salmon with rice. Some some Pisco sour and lemonades for the hydration. 

A father's fairy
(zoom in to see the stars)

A quick stop at home and around 9ish at night we were speeding towards a little beyond the Vale de la Luna in search of a dark spot to park and yes, see the dessert night sky it had to offer. The best was Abesh, who was the most excited and after once glance at the sky he was done and sat imagining an asteroid coming towards us to entertain himself. Kids, I tell you! The moon was just a slice more than a sliver, gorgeous as it slipped through the night sky and with a final wave beyond the horizon. With the absence of the moon light, new stars, small and big danced on the dark sky. It was enthralling in one word. DH went from novice to mastering night photography - bless him. 

We came home to find our neighbor hosting some kind of cultural ritual where men and women played the drum, pan-flutes and sang some traditional songs, all while moving in an entrancing circle (just that it was 10 at night). We sat at our doorstep and watched and soon were sleeping through our last night on Atacama.

Day 4: White, Red and blue - the Chilean colors too!

Salt Streaked!

White - Our first stop was at the Lagoona Cejar, lagoons with water so salty that one can just float in them without sinking (just like the Dead Sea). A quick hike to the lagoon, sunscreens aren't allowed everyone just gets 20 minutes due to the high salt content and sun. I waved from the shores as DH and kids went into the cold water, bbbhhhrrr! Soon they were all floating around like logs and wind carried their squeals of joy over. Life can indeed get very beautiful! Streaked with salt, they showered and changed at the park, and soon after we were once again back on the road.

Red - Our next halt was at the Pietra Rojas (Red Rocks). A good almost 2 hours drive away, it was worth every mile we had driven and more. We were now no more in the Atacama as DH pointed out, but somewhere in the mighty Andes. The landscape was mesmerizing and soon we were all spotting Vicuñas (basically llamas just wild). They were everywhere! The road meanders slowly from 8000 feet to 14000 feet with hardly any sharp hairpin bends. Abesh has severe downhill motion sickness, and he was fine without his medications both while going up and down.  

Life in a postcard

Blue - Jackets on, backpacks slimmed down to just water and phones - we started our hike at 14000 feet, a first for the kids. The about 30 minutes hike down to the 'insta' point wasn't too bad. And the beauty there was from another world. Snow-streaked mountains, pristine white salt flats, phytoplankton lakes of the truest blues and the red rocks created a postcard like no other.  This place is where at some point we all dream of that little cottage with vines we'd want to live the rest of our days in. Dream over, reality time - and the 30 minutes hike back up was a little challenging as we hiked through very thin oxygen. Water and pauses are a must and as per ones needs. 

Back on the road, lunch was simple ham sandwiches being thrown together on the fly. We drove through the Atacama countryside one last time to the El Lao Airport at Calama for our flight back to Santiago.

Back at the capital city of Santiago we hailed a taxi from one the kiosks inside the airport and were soon slurping the warm hug like consommé con pollo e arroz (chicken and rice soup) at the restaurant on the 12th floor at the Hyatt Place - our plush stay for the next two nights. 

Information: of course, you may drive a rental but like all capital cities, Santiago is brimming with cars and traffic, so we sort to taxis and Ubers for our way around. Getting both are fairly easy and taxis don't overcharge. Local buses might be good if you're around for longer, just make sure you have the rechargeable Bip! card. 

Day 5: A Pallet of Colors 

Monday saw us waking up to the scrumptious buffet breakfast, mostly continental but with some local foods like the Sopaipillas (little discs of baked flour kneaded with sweet potatoes or pumpkin) served with pico. 

We Uber-ed to the city center to spend our day in Santiago, only to find out that things are closed every Monday (something even Google doesn't know). But we aren't ones to feel defeated and changed our plans to visit Valparaiso, the vibrant graffiti costal hilly town. A 1.5 hours journey from Santiago, we were soon sitting on the second deck of our double decker Turbus bus.

Information: there are a few bus companies like the Flixbus, Turbus that have ample buses plying between Santiago and Valparaiso. The fare being at 5000 Chilean pesos (about $5) one way per head as of 2025. 

Life on Pallet of colors!

Well, what can I say of Valparaiso - it was as though we were now walking through a mad artist's pallet, one who had all the colors teasing the other. It was art, graffiti, thoughts, movements and colors everywhere we looked. From murals depicting wars and history to perfect human figures, from sharp bold colors to black and whites - it's all there. 

Like a paintbrush!

Thanks to the milling tourists, the roads are now dotted with coffee shops, restaurants, bars and a few souvenir stores. Following the suggestion from our Uber driver in Santiago that the empanadas in Valparaiso were simply the best, we chose a rather unique vegetarian and vegan empanada restaurant, La Boca del Oso. We had their beetroot soup and traditional empanada - tomato, basil and goat cheese and caramelized onion, walnuts and cheese. They were so good, like so so good! Next, we took the little Fernicular (a trolley car) which goes up a very steep mountain side and seemed like it was like 100 years old. It was a fun quick ride and just 100 Chilean pesos (like 12 cents) a head. With that we were back in yet another Turbus for our journey back to Santiago and to our hotel, where once more dinner was a warm hug soup, hung out at the terrace and were back in our room to call it a night for this leg of our journey in Santiago. 

Day 6: Waking with the sun! 

It was early morning and a little after 7:00 we were at the airport printing our boarding passes. The domestic terminal at the Santiago airport is fairly cozy and before long we were at our gate for our flight to Punta Arenas to pay our homage to the mighty Patagonia and Torres del Paine national park. A nap, two cups of coffee and a 3-hour flight got us to Punta Arenas from where we were to drive another 2.5 hours to Puerto Natales, our halt for the next 4 nights. Lunch were empanadas and coffee at the only food place at the airport. 

Fun fact - Punte Arenas is like really one of the southern most cities in the inhabited part of the earth - a wow feeling indeed! A little nudge and an emperor penguin would be waving at me. So much so that the Ruta del Fine del Mundo (Road of the end of the world) passes through here.

Our chariot was yet another white Hyundai (from Econorent) as we set off amidst cold, windy, cloudy and rainy Antarctic Chile. It's one straight road dotted with picturesque farms, grazing cows and sheep, and very few far and beyond places to halt. 

L: With Blanco the neighbor's pet
TR: Abesh with his Chorrillana
TB: Warm Patagonian Coffee

Soon we were at our 'hostal', Camino de Santiago and were welcomed by the very friendly Claudio at the front desk. A travel enthusiast himself he was giving information almost instantly of all the hikes, points, restaurants and what nots. Ha ha! Now Rupkatha has been worrying how akin out room would to be a hostel form & was relieved to hear that we had our room and restroom to ourselves (of course, we knew that but it was funny to see her fret a bit!). We made a quick stop at the little packed minimarket just a 2 minutes walk away, La Casa Amarilla (the yellow house & it truly was so) to stock for the next few days.  

We tried our luck at the Basecamp Pizzeria but it was closed, and our good luck took us to Glotones Natalino, a local eatery offering hotdogs, burgers and Chorrillana. Rupkatha ordered their avocado special hotdog, while Abesh, DH and I shared a Chorrillana for two (nothing less than a mountain of French fries, chicken, sausage, onions, bell pepper all soaked in the yummiest sauce). Piping hot, it was perfect on a cold rainy evening.

So close to the south pole, sunset wasn't till close to 10:00 pm and it sure did confuse us a tad before we called it a night. 

Day 7: They say it's Torres del Paine, I say it's Paradise 

When Nature turns artist!

The rains gave way to a somewhat sunny morning and with questions about what to expect in our hearts, we set forth. And ouch - the road is sadly full of potholes, and it was nothing short of a video game ride. But as we say in Bengali, work hard and you shall be rewarded, and we were! Before long snow-capped mountains came into sight with the prettiest of spring flowers carpeting the side of the road. 

The road does have gravely pull out points every now and then. We stopped to marvel and wow a few times before we reached the bleak visitor center to register our ticket and were officially inside the Torres del Paine National Park.

Fun fact - the name Torres del Paine means the Towers of Paine (the river Paine). The Patagonian mountains hosts sharp, tall and rugged tower-like features earning the national park its rightful name.

We were chugging along when a sudden turn opened beauty beyond words - green hillocks, a pallet full of flowers, white dotted skies, the snowy mountains and the bluest river welcomed us. It blew our minds as this wasn't something we expected at all. We stopped at the first pull out we possibly could and took every breath to let the beauty around to sink in. From thereon it was just a day in paradise. One stop after another gave us beauty and yet some more beauty. Lunch was simple sandwiched and what nots sitting in the boot of our rental looking yonder, what could I have asked more for. 

(See video at the end of our lunch).

Salto Grande Indeed!

Pointing to Guanacos here and there, we made our way to the majestic waterfall, Salto Grande. Despite being informed that the hike was closed due to extreme wind conditions at the visitor center we found the hike to be open. Gleeful we went on the quick hike and woah, what a mighty waterfall it was and what a beautiful range of colors, from mint green to deep blues. Nature was indeed at its best here. We hopped on the trails around before making it back to our car.

Our next stop was at the Lake Grey for our cruise to Glacier Grey. Incredible views waves back at us as we drove on gravel roads all the way to Grey Hotel. Registered, we were asked to drive to the marina and park. And then it was a 30-minute hike to the lake itself and huff and puff we went as towards the end it's a rather long walk on a pebbly beach. Queued, checked in we were seated at our table and within a few minutes it was yo-ho-ho-and-a-glass-calafate-pisco-sour!

When blue means beauty!

Welcome drinks included the calafate sour (a close cousin of the pisco sour) made with local calafate berries. The kids had Pepsi..haha! Cold and strong winds whipped out faces, as we made it to the docks as the Grey Glacier drew close. Entranced, we simply remained in awe of the beauty draped in a mystic blue. It was first for the kids, and they were very rightfully excited. The cruise stops at different points of the glacier giving all ample insta moments. 

We'd taken their evening ride, and it was 6:30 pm before we docked back. Hiked back, picked a coffee and some nicknacks at the gift shop, we made it to our car for the drive back to our hostal. DH stopped at least a gazillion times as evening skies cleared the clouds and 'Torres' themselves peeped out. With one final click with grazing horses and the mighty towers of the Patagonia, we zoomed back home munching on yet some more sandwiches. It was past 9:30 pm by the time we got home and it was still daylight around, zapping! Slumber was quick and peaceful! 

Day 8: The Road Not Taken!

Our first half of this day was going 10,000 years back in time as we visited the Cave of Mylodon. A prehistoric animal of the ice ages and believed to have become extinct about 10,000 years ago. It's fossils including fur were found in these areas. Short hikes got us to the cave. The cave itself was about 80 million years old with stalactite like formations on the roof made from sedimentation. Back at the visitor center, we decided to hike the trail at the back to a point where one can see condors. Though we didn't see condors at the top, we did see many throughout the day later. The hike was good climb up and down though!

Hola Mylodon

Information - you can buy the tickets at the visitor for the Cave of Mylodon.

The cave is just 25 minutes away giving us chance to scurry back to Puerto Natales for lunch. We decided to grab grub at Santolla, recommend by Cludio at the hostal desk. Santolla was a fish house at it best - the boys had local king crab (a local specialty), Rupkatha their fish, mussels and shrimp paella broth and I braved the lamb (literally the one I had seen grazing, JK!!!) with traditional wheat stew. And it was all delicious as we ate family style, sharing and grabbing from each other, it was indeed a lovely Thanksgiving lunch! 

Post that we decided to drive up the way our hostal owner advised, a not so sorted after and slightly longer road but with absolutely no potholes and so glad we did. We saw guanacos and condors plenty - we even saw the evasive Andean Grey Fox and the flightless bird, Suri. Soon we were on the gravel road driving over small hillocks, and our first stop was at the Laguna Amarga. The water was a mint green and with the torres perfect at the background. The landscape was dotted with pink, yellow and white wildflowers making the place surreal. 

The Pensive Ponderers!

Hearts filled the beauty around, we made it to the Laguna Azul, where the road just takes you into a picture-perfect postcard. Lucky for us, it was a very clear sunny day and the mountain peaks including the towers were visible clearly at all times. We parked at the little lookout, and plump red flowers and the blue water of the lake Azul welcomed us. I wish my words did justice to the paradise I was in but alas. A distant sound of laughter, some chatter here and there and the afternoon sun kissing our bronzed cheeks! And the towers themselves - majestic, rugged and entrancing, stand tall whispering thousands of years of lores. 

I wished time would stop but does it ever, as we started on our drive back home and DH once again stopping a gazillion times to click the perfect shot of the towers, this time it was a lone guanaco and the towers of the Paine. Back in town, we tried our luck once again at the Basecamp Pizzeria and once again found it to be closed and one again dined at the Glotones Natalino (much to my glee) munching their hotdogs and Chorrillanas. 

Day 9: Walking on the Andes! 

A walk to remember

It was a day the kids and I had to myself as DH left at 6:00 in the morning for his crazy 13 miles hike somewhere to the base of the Torres. So, it was a lazy start and cozy lunch of cup-o’-noodles at the hostal, before the kids and I set out to walk around Puerto Natales. Our first stop was at the local artesian market, Pueblo Artesanal Etherk Aike - it's full of handicrafts and little souvenir shops. Rupkatha picked earrings made with the blue Chilean national stone, Lapiz Lazuli, and Abesh a black sheep on a pencil and we stocked up on magnets for our friends back home. 

We strolled through the streets and stumbled upon the trail along the coast. It was a beautiful sunny day with a chirpy ocean, a few colorful ships and the snow peaks at a distance. We walked over to a little play area with a pier, skateboarding rink and a park for the kids to play in. And boy oh boy, what a childhood it was for them! We walked some more along the coast and on the beach while Rupkatha and Abesh laughed, played and ran as carefree as they could ever be!

It was a long walk back home and the fresh ocean breeze sure made us all hungry. Washed down an entire loaf between the three of us with some tea and coffee. A little while later, DH came back very exhausted but very happy from his hike and dinner was simple empanadas from the local mini market and the kids wolfed cup-o’-noodles once again. 

The kids slept while DH and I sipped the local beer, Austral (I got a the very local Calafate flavor), chatted as the skies finally turned dark at 11:00 pm and called it a night over notes from the day. 

Day 10: If life’s a ‘Bass’, play on!

Left top: Carbby times
Right top: Paella broth with fresh catch
Left bottom: lamb steak with wheat stew
Right bottom: local soda and Calafate-sour

It was our last few hours in Puerto Natales and once again (this time with DH) we strolled around Puerto Natales to a souvenir store for some T-shirts. After the last few moments at the trail by the ocean, we made our way for lunch at a restaurant called Picada Mercadito Restaurante Oro Negro. An eatery in the heart of the downtown - the boys ordered a plate of sea bass and rice each and Rupkatha and I shared their chicken stew. I sneaked in a calafate sour too, one last time. The fish was fresh, pan seared while lightly breaded and the chicken stew was soulful. And it was a very economic restaurant too!

Information - the artesian market, Pueblo Artesanal Etherk Aike hosts handicrafts but the store, Artesanias Los Glaciales had t-shirts and other regular souvenirs. 

With that we made the 2.5 hours drive to Punto Arenas for our flight to Santiago. It was a little crazy at the airport with the tiny airport packed with an extra-long queue, but somehow, we made it. We flew late into the evening to Santiago where we halted just for the night at the Wyndham only to wake up early the next day to board our next flight.

Day 11: Cabana-ooh-na-na! Half of my heart is in Rapa Nui-ooh-na-na!

Flowery Business

It was yet another early morning at airport when life gave us a rather pleasant surprise - we'd somehow been upgraded to fly in the premium business class on the flight from Santiago to Rapa Nui, a 5-hour long flight. The kids were out of their wits with glee. Ha ha! It was a blessing indeed to stretch the otherwise reclining chair into a bed and catch up on some much-needed sleep! And would never say no to be waited upon either. Rested and excited we landed in beautiful island of Rapa Nui or Easter Island or Isla de Pascua, call it what your heart desires. 

It's a tiny shack of an airport and you get the far away from the mundane crowd vibe right from when you land. The words 'Iorrana' (pronounced as eyo-rana and meaning hello & goodbye, like ciao or namaste) welcome you with locals playing the drums and guitars with a lady dancing the beautiful traditional dance right there at the airport. (See video at the end).

Our abode for the next two nights was the Cabana Tongariki, complete with two bedrooms (again with a bunk bed), kitchen, garden and the neighbor's pet horse tethered right behind. Our owner, Marco met us at the airport with garlands of fresh flowers and welcomed us with a cheery smile. He drove us through the main street of the city showing us the only church, shops and minimarket before turning onto a dirt-road leading to our cabin. We shopped quick at the Eivi Minimarket and lunch was home cooked. 

Information - Rapa Nui is a highly protected island and requires its own immigration check. You must fill an online form, have a return ticket within 30 days from your arrival and must have a booking for all the nights you are there on the island. No fruits and meats can be carried over, packaged foods and drinks are fine. Well into the Pacific, it is a 2-hour time difference.

Hello Men in Hats!

Fed and energized we started off towards the Anakena Beach, a beach free to enter - and what a world you would enter. Ancient Moais stand tall looking into the island protecting it while the palm trees and warm sands gave way to the blue oceans! The kids dashed into the water without a worry in mind and soon DH and the kids were splashing around, as I lazed on the beach reading away like time had truly stopped awhile. We dined at the Moorea that evening - which I would say was okay, won't miss much if you don't eat here. 

Back at our cabin and a little jetlagged with the 2-hour time difference again, the kids slept in quick. We even had a small power-cut which funnily made DH pretty happy coz we were all bathed in the beautiful moonlight outside before calling it a night. 

Day 12: War and Peace!

Today was to be a day of wonders - as we set out with our guide, Jackei (the wife of the owner of the cabin we were staying in & spoke English enough to understand her). She even drove us around sometimes playing Spanish songs on her phone and sometimes singing and swaying to ancient Rapa Nui songs. It was like watching a Disney princess only live and in the real place. 

Information - apart from the national park entry ticket, it is also mandatory to visit all parks and sites with a guide. As of 2025, the guides charge the state mandated 50,000 Chilean pesos per person in your group. You cannot enter the national park area without a guide but can certainly go to the parking lot and just outside the lines without one. 

To burst or not burst

Our first halt was at the rim of the volcano Rano Kau, one of the three volcanoes that made Rapa Nui and estimated to have last lost its temper about 200,000 years ago. Rupkatha lives in fear of volcanoes and it was funny to see her eyes widen when she realized she was actually standing on one. The 360degree view is also beautiful as the city of Hanga Roa stretches below. 

Next stop was at a museum like place where our guide walked us through the Birdman competition, the acidic competitiveness between the seven clans of Rapa Nui and their search for the winning the first egg of the Manutara bird (sooty tern). With that we stepped out in the open to visit the replica of an ancient village where the Rapa Nui clans lived. Stepping back in time one can only marvel at the organic yet genius designs of the straw, sticks and stone huts to keep out the winds, rain and sun. 

The warring clans on Rapa Nui

Next, we drove out to the probably the most popular destination, Rano Raraku (the quarry of Moais). Starting from the coast, up the trail the Rapa Nui clans dragged the Moais down, up on the side of the hills to the caves in the hills - it's one Moai after the other. Some face down left as is, some half carved and some excavated & rescued standing tall making the entire landscape nothing short of time machine travel. We hiked along the steps and path crossing Moais and our guide told us stories of spirits, premonitions and beliefs. (PS - the Rapa Nui don't joke when they speak of spirits and premonitions and believe in them very strongly, so we respectfully listened and learnt). Rupkatha, the history lover, was beside herself with glee and poured questions on our guide - learning facts like the eyes were the last to be carved once the statue had been stood on the platform & spiritual connection established or that the women Moais had thicker chins than men Moais. 

Sadly, almost all the Moais had been felled from their ahus a few centuries ago when the seven clans curdled against each other and warred fiercely. Eventually, historians and archeologists made their way and today expeditions from all over the world work towards excavating and making the Moais re-stand on their ahus.

Lunch was simple of bread and jam sandwiches, boiled eggs, Doritos and cookies we'd packed from home as we stood at a parking lot munching away with the Moais for company. Our next stop was once again at a village replica this time showcasing stone walled flat houses where the Birdman competitors used to wait for the first bird to fly and hatch an egg and from there the running, climbing and swimming began. The egg is laid on an island called Motu Nui.....ahhh yes, the island from Moana! It was thrilling indeed. 

Fun times indeed

From there our guide drove us to the yet another very popular stop, Ahu Tongariki - where 15 tall Moais stand shoulder to shoulder on an Ahu (platform) looking at the visitors marveling at them.  These Moais in particular had been destroyed in a Tsunami in the recent past and thanks to a Japanese expedition team are back on their ahu today. 

Our last stop was at the Seven Moais of Ahu Akivi where for a change the Moais look out into the sea hawk-eyeing the outsiders that come into their island. We exchanged notes with our guide about life in the bustling California against the laidback Rapa Nui. 

Ceviche with Mahina

With that we called it a day and were back in our cabin to rest a little before heading out again for dinner at probably the best eatery in town, Oheho. Suggested by our cabin owner it truly lived up to their name - we ordered their atun (tuna) ceviche and their tuna steak. Everything came with fat wedges of local sweet potato fries and rice. It was so good that we ordered yet another ceviche, this time with shrimp and octopus. We also tried the local Rapa Nui brew, Mahina and kids slurped fresh fruits juices of raspberry and mango. 

It was a never-ending day as we finally trooped to Ahu Tahai to watch the sunset - popular but thanks to the remoteness of the island not populated! With a final wave to the sun, we were back in our cabin for our last night on the island. 

Day 13: The One Last Moai!

We all woke up early thanks to the crowing rooster, grunting horse and chirping birds outside. DH stepped away awhile to get some sunrise pictures as the kids, and I hung out at our cabin watching life around is wake up to yet another glorious morning. We lunched once more at Oheho (more tuna ceviche and steaks devoured) watching the waves crash and the distant surfers play at life. DH took the kids to a small pier nearby to see some turtles - more life! Next, we went to the main street to pick up some t-shirts and nick-nacks for home and friends. 

Moai, LATAM and life!

Soon we at the shack of an airport. Security leads to small waiting lounge inside, another outside and a garden with flowers and a Moai (yes, there is a Moai even at the airport)! 

Information - it is a very small airport, and one should expect lines at the check in, PDI immigration check and security. 

Due to some technical issues, our flight got delayed by 2 whole hours and worrisome as it was, it was indeed an experience sitting under shady trees in the garden watching our kids play archeologists digging a hole in the grass (of course they fixed it before we left). Luckily dinner was served on the flight back and it was close to 2:00 am when we finally reached our hotel room for our last night in Chile (maybe ever). A stone's throw from the airport, City Express by Marriot was our abode for that last night. 

Day 14: Curtain Fall!

STGO we loved you!

Information - Most airport hotels come up with airport pick and drop off!

Our hotel had a default late check out at 1:00 pm and we showered, rested and hung out trying to keep away from the heat outside. Soon we were dropping our luggage at the kiosk and were making our way to our Uber to ride to the Pio Nono Station at the base of the famous San Cristobal Hill. Excited we bought their combination ticket to first ride their Fernicular (trolley) and then their cable car to the last stop. The trolley really takes you up a steep hill side up to the base of the Cerro San Cristobal, where a white statue to Mother Mary stands tall.  We hiked up the steps, grabbing a much-needed halt at a quaint little church before continuing up again. It was a sunny day, and we sat on the steps looking down the sprawling, thriving and bustling city of Santiago below us. 

Our next stop was of course at an outlet of the chain ice cream shop, Delicatto - where Rupkatha grabbed the local flavor Manjar (dulce de leche) and peanut butter, Abesh cookies and cream, and DH pistachio flavored ice creams on the stick. Sugared and cooled down we trooped to the cable car station and were soon sitting inside a green box swinging over the Santiago Metropolitan Park as we went all the way to the last station. On a cooler day once may get off interim and enjoy the different gardens and kids' parks - but it was rather hot so decided to skip those. A little walking around, soon we were back in a blue cable car this time making our way back. We sat the little cafeteria for a while watching the tallest building in South America, Gran Torre Santiago towering in front of us. Down again the Fernicular ride we were back on ground zero and ambled along the streets of BellaVista area.

L: Streets of BellaVista
R: Pablo Neruda's house in Santiago

Soon we were at La Chascona, the house of the late Noble Laureate, Pablo Neruda. A politician, diplomat, visionary and most of all a poet - he is one of the shining stars in Chile's history. And what a beautiful walk it was through his house. The tickets come with little audio guides (in English) which you can listen to as you walk through the whims and fancies of the maestro's house. The cherry on the cake was the display of his Noble prize - a Noble prize medal, the Noble prize medal. It was the kids, DH's and mine first time ever seeing one and it still gives me goose bumps as I write about it. 

Yummy in our tummy

It was late afternoon and with grumbling tummies we walked through the streets of BellaVista to little notch called the Chilean Brunch, a quiet quaint alcove amidst the busy streets. We sat at their patio under shady trees and pretty hanging lamps and discovered that this was the house and the cafe of a late doctor-and-theater-artist, what a combination! We even saw his now no longer used theater. We ordered their Tabla of the house (it came with empanadas, sweet corn mousse, sopaipillas, tapas bruschetta and olives), their Chorrillana (dryer than the one we had in Puerto Natales) and Empolvado (typical Chilean dessert made with fried dough covered and with powdered sugar and Manjar (dulce de leche like thing). 

With that we called it a show at our time in Chile! Uber-ed back to our hotel, picked our luggage and were soon sitting at gate A04 at the international terminal of the Santiago Airport to catch the red eye back to LA. It had been a long trip and nothing like home but within us our hearts ached to leave behind country so beautiful, so charming, so varied and as little Abesh said 'Chile - the unexplained'! 

Quick Notes for those who are already looking at flight prices by now:  

Currency: Chilean pesos.

Airlines International: LATAM/Delta.

Airlines Domestic: LATAM, Sky (we always flew LATAM as the ticket comes with one carry on always and was hassle free).

Uber: Yes

Taxis: yes (and are very safe. Most accept card in Santiago & are cash driven elsewhere)

Car in Rapa Nui: we rented from our cabin owner else rent at a rental service - we just saw one taxi in our 3 days there.

Car rentals: Avis, Hertz, SixT, etc.

Biking: rentals are everywhere in the country and a thing to do in especially in the national parks

Card vs cash: Card works almost in all places like restaurants (even in Rapa Nui), hotels, national park tickets, gift shops. Just is some taxis and local handicrafts stalls it is cash driven.

ATM: Santander ATMs are everywhere from airports to in front of the ocean in Rapa Nui to city center in Puerto Natales.

Food:

1. Empanadas (Pino - meat with caramelized onions is the best and most common)

2. Chorrillana

3. Tabla

4. Lomo Saltado

5. Mainly meat and potatoes

6. Crab, bass, tuna, salmon, shrimp, mussels in coastal areas

Drinks (adults): Pisco sour, Calafate sour, local beers like Royal, Austral.

Drinks (kids): fresh fruit juice like mango, berries, etc.

Tipping culture: yes, in restaurants. As of 2025 10% was normal.

Possible to cook: if your house, hotel room, hostel has a kitchen then yes, local supermarkets or minimarkets have everything you need. (I shopped at mini markets).