Mexico: La Vida Bonita!

A Maritime Paradise

Bonding in Mexico!

My husband’s company gives 2 months of bonding leave every single time someone has a baby. Yeah, I know what you’re thinking my fellow traveling parents. J So when our second one landed, my husband decided to bond with the kids in Mexico! Not too long flights, visa on arrival and a handsome knit between nature, history and food fueled our decision to visit this colorful neighbor of ours. So we started packing for La Vida Bonita a la Mexico.

Day 1 The Mexican ‘feel’

We reached Cancun some time close to midday with a 9 months old Abesh and a 23 months old Rupkatha. My father too had joined us for the trip. Having a grandparent is a blessing when you’re travelling with two tiny babies. We spend a good amount of time at the car rental. Between, paper work, payment and getting the car ready – it was a good wait. Finally, we got our white hunchback all clean and ready. I carried car seats as it was just easier for me; and also for the babies to sleep in them.

The Water Babies

Information: the car rental price may be very economical when you are booking. However, you absolutely have to take insurance there and that turns the table. The ultimate price you may is on the higher side.

Information: it is not required to seat babies/kids in car seats in Mexico.

Soon we were in our hotel, Hotel Kin Mayab! It was non-descript little place, but, it was pretty no doubt. The architecture was in a hacienda style and a very Mexican ‘feel’ to it. Since, it was just after Christmas, they still had all the decorations everywhere adding to the charm of it. I personally find different interpretations, styles and representations of the same religion extremely interesting to observe. In our hotel, it was filled with fairy lights and red and golden leaves. Bespeaks of the locals who love being open, loud and flamboyant about their emotions.

My husband found this local eatery where we got some grub from. I don’t remember much from it sadly.

Day 2 Because it’s OK to rest

After a good night’s rest, we started our drive towards the coastal town of Tulum. The drive itself was non-eventful and about two hours, give or take.

Our home for the next few nights was a lavish apartment in the Zama Village. We were about 10 to 15 minutes’ drive away from the beach. Our first day in Tulum was for resting, getting out of jetlag and just exploring the area around us. To some, this might seem off that we were in Mexico for the first time and I was practically just resting and letting my babies rest. Trust me, it was all a part of the greater master plan. I battled flight fatigue and jetlag for 1.5 days flat, let my kids rest as much as they want to. And by day 2, lo and behold, they were ready for a fortnight of travel ahead.

Yummy Yummy in my Tummy

We dined a little local shack. Our table groaned under the fish tacos, grilled fish, rice and beans. And of course, Corona (I sadly was a breastfeeding mother and all I could was to stare). My daughter had rice and beans.  

Information: Mexicans are very open minded about breast-feeding. I breastfed my son all over the country and no one would give me a second look.

Suggestion: Carry packaged mashed baby foods for your <one year old. Otherwise the only option would be the refried beans, maybe some fish. Not recommended for continuous consumption. I carried Gerber ones, approximately like 3 for each day of travel.

When travelling with very small babies living at the very location might lead to having noisy surroundings, etc. Again living too far (like more than 20 to 25 mins) leads to losing precious time. Chose an B&B/hotel which is like 5 to 20 minutes away.

Day 3 Live Life King Size

Now this was truly a fun filled day. With lots of sun screen and diapers in my bag, we all set off to spend the day at the beach. And this where we lived life king size! We checked into Ziggy’s, a really great resort right on the Tulum Beach.

We were allotted a big table, armchairs and a nice sunbed for the whole day. My kids napped happily by the sea soaking in all the sunshine in the world. We ordered drinks, lunch and snacks all through the day. And just guess who much we paid for all of that. Just $55!! Corona (again), fresh mango milkshakes, guava milkshakes to quench our thirst. Fish tacos, sea food paella to humor our tummies. My daughter especially had loved the milkshakes and why worry, as they are akin to healthy smoothies! :D

It was day well spent. We left in the evening to drive around the Rainforest around Tulum. If you’re lucky you might catch a glimpse of the Howler monkey. We weren’t! But, we were lucky enough to spot a wild crocodile while driving on a bridge. Thankfully, I wasn’t at the banks!

After all the excitement, we called it a day and came back home for a quiet night’s rest.

The Living Fossil, Iguana!

Day 4: Pineapple Juice

We woke up early. My husband had got groceries from chain grocery store, Chedraui the evening before and we had a filling breakfast of bread, butter and eggs. Soon we were on our way to the  Mayan Port City Ruins. We were soon joined by our guide, Senor Santiago. While waiting in the line for our tickets, we saw lots of Iguanas scuttling around. They’re fairly tame and just mind their own business as humans chain around them for tickets.

Soon we were pushing strollers down the Mayan ruins, a city that was built round the 13^th century. Stories, tales and lores gushed around in the winds around us, some heard some unheard. Even in the month of January it was hot and sunny. Not many trees to give shade, but, the ruins themselves threw some shade to catch some rest every now and then.

An image that is imprinted in my memory is that of the blue waters lapping at the ankles of the centuries old Mayan ruins. The lighthouse guided home ships back and slyly led foreign ships into the reef below the waters protecting the city. From the main pyramid, El Castillo to the Temple of Frescoes, it’s a marvel.

Costa Azul a la Mayan Ruins, Tulum 

Once back to main plaza, we stopped at the little eateries for some grub and much needed juices. I remember my 23 months old, Rupkatha sitting with red cheeks and devouring glass after glass of refreshing pineapple juice. Bless the little traveler! We shopped at the souvenir stores there. My father bought a little Mexican doll for Rupkatha and a den den drum for Abesh. I personally am obsessed with calendars and what’s more famous than the Mayan Calendar. Shopped a few copies of that one and some other show pieces. Remember to bargain hard! :D

Once back, we all went to Chedraui. I wanted to check out all the local produce, we got some truly delicious mangoes and water melon. Post that, we called it a day. My father, the kids and me came home to enjoy our lavish apartment. My nomadic husband headed out again to visit a cenote nearby, Cenote Carwash!

Day 5: From Carwash to Mayaland

One more day of driving through the Mexican countryside. This once we drove from Tulum to Chichen Itza. It’s a short one of a little over an hour. We all stopped at the Cenote Carwash. I would strongly recommend this one, it was beautiful! Very peaceful. We all didn’t dive in and we all wet our feet. It was very green with lots of old trees around. It was a happy place!

Before long we were at our abode for the night, Hotel Mayaland. OMG! And omg it was. It’s this grand hotel and estate right next to Chichen Itza. My husband used stored points to book a night here. Even if it’s a bit expensive given it’s Mexico, I would still very strongly recommend staying here, parents and non-parents alike. The hotel was built in 1923 and it’s a marvel with its broad  corridors, stained glass windows and winding staircases, bespeaking of the Victorian era it was built in. There were peacocks in the dining area (Rupkatha was beside herself with glee upon seeing one). The estate is huge with lots of colorful summer birds and a haven for an evening stroll. If you have a few bucks to spare, then, you can check into the their cottages too. Prime ministers, Presidents, Kings, Queens, Glamor World stars are frequent visitors here. I’m telling you, for all the history around, this was quite a chapter in itself.

Day 6: Kukulcan, the Feathered Serpent

La Nina y La Chicehn Itza!

My kids woke up early next day which was a blessing as we were able to beat the crowds at the Chichen Itza. The good thing about this hotel was that you have to walk like 10 minutes and you’ll be standing at the back gate of entering the timeless Chichen Itza. It was built around 600 – 900 AD. As our guide, Senor Victor ranted on, I lost myself to Cuculcan, the feathered  serpent;  how the structure played with the sun’s rays, spring and autumn equinoxes and how the many governments lost and won over the years. Ancient Mayans loved their ball-game. Best portrayed by the a splendid ruin, the Great Ball Court. The Thousand Columns have also etched a mark in my memory, some say they were hallways to meet, some say they were a market place of wares. Sometimes, history tastes better when seasoned with some mystery.

Tip: start as early as possible. A) you beat the crowds B) you also beat the sun.

Lots of good pictures and memories later, we were back the hotel and got ready to head out once again to Cancun. Now this was a longer drive compared to others, 3 and a half hours. However, we (largely my husband) got a little much adventurous and deviated from the freeway and drove through the country side. We ended up in driving for almost 4 and half hours. Honestly, driving through the country side gives you a wonderful insight into and flavor of the rustic lives in the Mexican villages, however be weary of the long drive and toll it takes on kids. It’s a trade off!

Information: this is specially for parents from the USA,  Europe etc. The speed bumps are huge and little hills he car will bounce over. If your kids asleep or tired, just stick to the freeways.

Finally, at our hotel, Ocean Dream BPR, Cancun. An ocean facing cozy little alcove. Our hotel was bang in the middle of Zona Hotelera with lots of malls and high fashion stores. Not being much of a fashion person myself, I didn’t shop around. But, this might be a good chance for you moms to let the kids be with the dad and stroll down the beach and around the stores.

Gone with the Wind, Cancun

Day 7: Blues, Whites and Greens

We woke up to a gorgeous day smiling back at us. The blue oceans, white beach and green palm trees dotted the landscape for as far as the eye could see. Early mornings are a tad bit chilly in January, a little jacket or jumper would be a smart thing to sport. My husband took my daughter down to the beach and she came back all wind swept but, extremely joyous and happy.

Soon we were on our way to the airport. No, the trip still ain’t over and no flying back home yet. :D We were flying to Mexico City. We reached there in the evening and took a Taxi down to our Airbnb, The New Duplex at the City Center. We settled in quick choosing our beds as we went. J

Day 8: Limones Cocadas

Now, as a couple either my husband and I live in absolutely non-descript chain hotels where even the way toilet paper is folded doesn’t change; or, we live in exciting, must write home about tree houses, Park Hayatt hotels or a few century old buildings. In this case, it was a double storied apartment tucked onto the third flood of an 18^th century house. Renovated well with all modern amenities from elevators to wi-fi, everything you need.

Nuestro Casa (Our Home), Ciudad De Mexico

Mexico City is also famous for street side tacos, especially taco al pastor. And I cannot even begin to tell you how many I had. I still carry the good taste and the guilt :D.

We strolled around the bustling streets of the City Center observing shops, people and life in general. Soon we were at the Zocalo, the heart of Mexico City and it does throb fast. We visited the Mexico City Metropolitan Cathedral, build over a span of three centuries starting in the 1500’s. It is peaceful, it’s rejuvenating and it’s a wonderful example Spanish architecture in the medieval times. 

What struck me as a wonder was that a large part of the Zocalo was built atop an Aztec ruin, which had remained undiscovered for a fairly long time. Built almost a hundred years before the Basilica above it, this site is home to remains of a tomb and parts of a city.

Information: you don’t really need a guide in here. It’s a small walk in and around the ruins with lots boards offering explanations.

The Cathedral Looks Over the Aztec Ruins, Mexico City  

On our way back home, we stopped at one of the older sweet shops to taste the famous dessert, Limones Cocadas (Lime Peels stuffed with coconut and sugar). They were Frida Kahlo’s ever so favorite sweets. Skip Mexico City if you intent on skipping tasting this one, I mean it! We also stopped at a local eatery for some Pan con carne (square buttery bread with meat) and fresh fruit juice. Why would one ever leave such haven?

Information: the breads are very soft and be easily consumed by kids and fills the little tummies well.

Back home, my father and I chatted away as the kids caught up on sleep and by dear husband wandered around the hallways of Bella Artes Palace.

Day 9: Shopping!

We planned to visit the Palacio Nacional (National Palace) in the morning but, were welcomed by some local protests for gas price hikes.

Information: expect turbulences and delays in big cities. Has happened to us multiple times. If you have other things to do just move on to the next one. Or, if you wish to be safe just head back to your hotel/Airbnb till the storm passes.  

The Brush is Mightier than the Sword

We returned back after a quick brunch to see Diego Rivera’s murals inside the National Palace. Intricate and a perfect depiction of the times he lived in. So might is the brush that it actually tells the entire story about rural struggles, city life and the government in single mural. We also saw the seat of the Old Parliament. I can still fell the speechlessness I had felt staring humbly at the murals back then.

In the evening, we headed to the colorful and vibrant, Mercado De Artesanias La Ciudadela. This is a great place for shopping and pick up nick-nacks. We got bags, coffee mugs, earrings, clothes and what nots. And not just filling in our suitcases, just strolling around the alleys and looking at all the wares was interesting; the colors, the depictions of their ancient Gods, paintings – certainly an evening to remember.

Suggestion: I always say this, the sellers in these mercados aren’t the richest of all. So, it’s OK to  bargain, but never too much. Spare a few bucks – it’s a help in its own way.

Mantlepiece Fillers!

Day 10: Wheels on the bus go round and round

We spent our mornings strolling aimlessly around Zocalo. If you love travelling then, do this. Don’t have an agenda, don’t have a checklist and absolutely don’t look at that phone – just walk, stroll, sit, gaze around you. Soak life, and let life soak you! Trust me, it’s beautiful. J

On our way back to the Airbnb, we stopped at one of the large local bakeries and piled our trays with fresh baked goodies; from Conchas to Tostado to what nots. Now that I think of it, we actually frequented this bakery quite a few times over.

My husband did a quick stop at the Museum of Art. Before long, we were hopping over to the  Museo de Antropologia (Musuem of Anthropology). It has lots of exhibits, is exciting and has a lot of artefacts. But, in all honesty (and especially with children) don’t plan the whole day here. Doing about two rooms (two exhibits) is enough.

Once back at the city center, we decided to take a ride on hop on hop off bus service, where once we hopped on, we only hopped off once we were back the Zocalo. It’s a nice ride around the city and what appalled me was Mexico City seemed like it was plucked out of Europe and placed in Mexico. Ancient cathedrals, large green trees, fountains and a mid-paced modern life, it has a very European feel to it.

Day 11: Curtain Fall

As I read in one of my kids’ books, to say good-bye is always sad, but, coming home is never bad!

We were flying out of Mexico City mid-day. With a last few looks around our 18^th century home we piled on to the Uber to take us to the airport to fly home to Portland.