India: Forts, Food and Fun!

 India: Forts, Food and Fun!

It had been two years. And once again, it was that time of the year when all our big suitcases get filled with gifts and we board long flights all the way to India! 😊

Hot, Humid yet Happy!

Day 2: Palaces!

Colors!

It was DH and kids' first time in Udaipur, Rajasthan. Thanks to my denying to retire father who was now working in the beautiful city of Udaipur, it was my home for the next two weeks. As overly excited as DH was to see Rajasthan, he had already convinced us to go explore the City Center the very next day we got to India and soon we were all piling into our cab in the late morning. We reached the City Center just before lunch and despite yelp and whatnot, had to bank on local advice to have lunch at the Millets of Mewar. This was the old city just outside the gates of the City Palace and full of thin winding alleys, shops, restaurants and maybe an occasional home of a local who still lives there. 

Lunch was the famous Rajasthani dish, Dal-baati churma (deep friend lentil cakes with lentil soup, sweet fried wheat and spiced chilly chutney) while the kids had gatte ki sabzi (gram flour nuggets curry). Bellies full and a little jet lag kicking in, we slowly made our way thru the gates to the City Palace. A flash from the past that started in the 1500s and took almost 400 years to complete, the palace still stands in its perfection, grandeur and beauty! Being summer it was crowded but not too much.

Chatri &  Shah Jahan's Hideout at Jagmandir Palace

Chatri &  Shah Jahan's Hideout at Jagmandir Palace

We decided to skip the museum for that day and made it the Lake Pichola for the boat ride to the Jag Mandir Palace in the middle of the Lake. The boat ride takes along the coast of the lake showing different sides of the City Palace, along the white Taj Lake Palace (where all the celebrity and big fat Indian weddings happen 😉) and sail thru the calm water to the Jag Mandir Palace. We disembarked there and walked around the palace. Also, built in the 1500's, history hides in every corner as there was a section where Shah Jahan had taken abode in in disturbing times. The construction showcases style of the Rajputs of Mewar, complete with three chatris (literal translation is umbrella, but, here it was covered sitting or standing areas). 

Everyone was a little tired by then and we decided to call it a day and made it back the boat and took the quick ride back. Back in our cab, more sooner than later we were back home. 

PS: DH managed to magically vanish an entire ghevar (a deep fried wheat and ghee based desert) in 24 hours! 😁😁

Day 3: Oops it was hot! 

To History and More!

Today on the menu was Chittorgarh & Chittor Fort! Just a 2 hours drive away from Udaipur, we reached Chittorgarh around midday. We decided to have lunch before and our driver halted us at the Jai Chittor Restaurant. Giving in to a very coaxing young boy tending our table, we decided to try the local speciality angoor (grapes) curry and saag (spinach) curry. Against our mild Bengali pallets, the base Rajasthani spice level does seem elevated, but, nonetheless the food was very tasty and you just keep taking that one more spoon. 😀

Information: it is easier to find a vegetarian restaurant in Chittor and they are much more in number. And in Chittor, do try the angoor (grapes) curry which is a local speciality. Given it was July, it was still hot in Chittorgarh with the feels like going beyond 40C. So carry a hat, lots of water and dress as lightly as possible. 

Palaces and More!

Next stop was the Chittor Fort. Built as early as in the 7th century, some of if stands tall, and some crumbles in ruins. In many ways it's unnerving to walk on the same stones where likes of Sultan Khilji, Rani Padmini, Meerabai and many a Ranas and Rajputs have walked. I don't think this tiny blog can do justice in trying the capture the magnificent, colorful and bloody history of the fort and the grounds around it. Built by one of the more written about rulers, Rana Kumbh in the 1400s, the Vijay Stambh (tower of victory) stands tall, strong and still good as new. 

From Padmini's Palace by the lake to Meerabai's temple, from Rana Kumbh's palace to the seven pols (gates) that protect entire fort and palaces within; our guide took us from one spot to another telling us stories like how the Rana's never bowed down the the Delhi Sultanate, how Meera could never be poisoned and how even the queens guarded the honor of the families with their wit and lives. 

Poor DH succumbed to the heat and we spent most of our time seeing the various spots from our car. With that we decided to call it a day and it was a happy drive back home with some welcome sprinkles on our way back. 

Day 5: It hadn't been just us a in long long time! 

History with a View!

With a day's rest in his kitty, DH seemed well and about. We decided to give the kids yet another day of rest, while DH and I set out to explore the City Palace and its Museum. We walked around a little bit before beelining for the Museum and decided to hire a local guide to walk us thru the lores. Added to the history lessons, he was a man of wit and humor and the next one hour was really fun filled. We started with marveling the swords, armor, helmet of the Maharana Pratap and soon learnt that he could actually sword fight with both hands; and the way to recognize him in any picture or statue is that his quiver would actually have two swords. The statue of his loyal horse, Chetak followed and then display after display of swords, shields gave way to guns and even multi purpose weapons like sword, knife and gun built into one. The creation of man is beautiful but alarmingly bloody as well. 

We saw the pen with a built in gun that was used in the James Bond movie, Octopussy. 😊 Next we went to the top of the fort which has the pigeon post office, temples, queens' rooms complete with their kitchens, hallways, dressing rooms and whats nots. The view of the ever growing Udaipur far down below was indeed breath taking as our guide told us how each window, archway was used to observe the incoming foe or friend. 

Fort, Food and Shopping!

After a rather mesmerizing hour or a little more, we made our way back out of the palace and made our way to the restaurant right next next to the fort, Palki Khana. I dared ordered the dal-bati-churma again (it was lighter here), DH ordered their chana kulcha. To end things on a sweet note we ordered their masala chai cheesecake and it was yyyuuummmmyyy and quite a visual sight too. We shopped heaps at the shops right below the palace from rather expensive miniature paintings to little earrings for our daughter, to dohars (cotton throws) to little puppets for our son. Bags heavy and wallets considerably lighter, we came back home smiling. 

Information: as of July 2024, the guide charged 500 INR for about an hour worth of walking and information. 

Day 9 & 10: In Awe of Dilwara! 

As it always at my father's home, visiting Mt. Abu was a last minute weekend getaway plan. The city of Adu at the foothills is about 3 hours away from Udaipur and the main mountain-top is about 4 hours away. Unlike the usual image of the golden hot desert land of Rajasthan, the drive from Udaipur to Mt. Abu was dotted with lush green hills, farmlands and road dividers lined with yellow Oleander and pink Hibiscus flowers. 

Information - there are about 3 tolls between Udaipur and Abu. Each charging anywhere between 90 to 240 INR as of 2024 July. 

Chitty Chitty Bang Bang ot Abu!

With most of the roads fairly traffic free and some crazy traffic uphill, we reached the top at about 1 30 and well into lunch time. Luckily, I'd already narrowed down on the  The Mulberry Tree restaurant (inside the Hilton'e' Hotel (mind the e at the end there 😉😀)) and what a blessing it was. We ordered almost all the kebabs on their menu - shammi (pan roasted spiced ground meat), sheekh (grilled in an earthen pot on a stick) and dahi ke kebab (ccottage cheese stuffed with curd) and some of their naan and cumin rice. It was all so delicious! We ordered second rounds of all the kebabs as each one of us attacked our favorites. 

Next stop was the much awaited almost a thousand years old now, Dilwara Temples. Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) they don't allow phones or cameras inside and has a very strict army security inside. While entering all married women are offered a pink scarf to cover their heads and so was I. Once inside, it's just another very world altogether. It's about a 2 minutes walk to the temple itself and the carvings are from another world. From the pillars to the ceiling, from the walls to the doorways - all are covered with very intricate, each unique carvings singing lores of the Lord Mahavir (the God of the Jains) to different animals, dancing ladies, wheels and flowers. It was in one word - divine! It was funny to see the 8 year old Abesh suddenly very religious, going on his knees at every altar and praying with his little hands folder; and it was equally rewarding to see the 9 year old Rupkatha awestruck by the beauty and wanting to see the carvings twice, more slowly the second time. 

With that we called it a day and drove the quick hour back downhill to the city of Abu to rest for the night at out abode, Rawla Homestay. Owned by an ex-airforce ground personnel, he and his lovely family lived right next door. It was a great way of experiencing daily local Mewari life. The meals were all home cooked and extremely hearty. They welcomed us with some drinks and kala jamun (Indian blackberry) juice for the kids and they loved it, so much so that Abesh took seconds and even asked our house help to make him some everyday once he got back. 😍

Slept peacefully to wake up to a cloudy morning and chatted galore with the owner and his family learning about local farming, way of life and just catching up. Special mention to the breakfast as Rupkatha and I chose their aloo parathas which were huuuge and delicious! Hearts and memory jars full, we started our drive back home. 

Day 12: The day of the Camel Ride! 😊

Unth Utho!

Good ol' Dadubhai had bookmarked the place where he'd seen camel rides in his memory and when we decided to go out on a crisp Tuesday morning, he drove us straight to the other side of Lake Pichola and what a happy surprise it was for the kids! Both the kids where whooping with joy as they scooted up the ladder to sit atop the tall camel. I too got a place on top of the quiet animal as we trotted up and down the road next to the Lake Pichola. So happy were the kids that we did two rounds and the second time, the man leading the camel made it trot a little and boy oh boy, bumpy it was! 😀

Next was the ropeway to Karni Mata Temple. Red, green, yellow three gondolas go up and down the steep green hill giving everyone a spectacular and breathtaking view of the Lake Pichola, Jagmandir palace, Taj palace hotel flanked with green hills and the city all around. 

All bow to Her & His Highness!

As I hiked the trail a little further, I came back to find the kids quickly being piled in local clothes and gears for the royal photoshoot - and a photoshoot it was; complete with a bespectacled prince with a turban and sword and shy princess with pots and silver jewelry. 😍 We also had some real good mango ice cream with rose syrup at one of the rooftop eateries out there. 

Back on the ground, we drove the quick 2 kilometers to the other side of Lake Pichola where the Lake Palace is (yes, my third time there within 10 days 😆). This time mommy turned guide and I walked my kids thru the palace showing the picture of the king now to telling them stories about the Ranas. It was a little warm and their little faces were red and sweaty by the time we got out. As promised we made it straight to the restaurant, Palki Khana or as they happily called it, the Raja's restaurant (as Palki Khana is a part of the Hertiage Hotels owned by the Raja today). Spagetti in lamb bolognese, pizza with chicken sausage - children found their soul food and once in a while let's let them be. With that we called it a day and were soon driving back home. 

Day 15 & 16 - All aboard the choo choo to the Taj Mahal!

Some memoirs old, some new!

For the first time we braved to take the kids on a train and an overnight one in India. Unfortunately and not as planned DH and my father-in-law could not join us on the train ride. Nonetheless, there we were, my father, the two kids and myself standing on platform # 1 at the Udaipur City Station waiting for our train, Udaipur Khajuraho Express. Needless I tell, the kids simply loved it as they jumped from berth to berth and chose which side they would sleep on the upper berths. They were surprised to see clean white pillows with cases, sheets, towels and warm blanket being given to everyone (hmph! what did they think Indian railway was). 

It was wonderful to relive all my childhood memories of the train travels with my father. Rupkatha skidded down to flop next to me to watch the train scuttle away into the darkness with a distinct village light tinkering in the distance. The kids even woke up early (at 6 am 😆) to see the early morning bustle at the different stations. A little past 2 (thanks to a 4 hours engine failure delay) we reached the Agra Cantt. Station and it took two porters to carry all our international travel number of luggages to our car.  

Fun at Hotel Taj!

Our abode for the next two nights was the Hotel Taj at Agra. It was a great stay I must say! Welcomed with some drinks, check in was quick and soon we were in our room staring out of the huge ceiling to floor window at the city of Agra around us. Room service was prompt and the food was great. They had fun activities planned for the kids in the evenings where the kids happily did pottery, saw a whole show about the history of the Taj Mahal, puppet show and played board games. Good luck was on our side this evening and before long we were joined by my husband and father-in-law. 

PS: special mention to the welcome sugar tray complete with very good chocolate with a picture of the Taj and some good paan petha (betel nut flavored traditional sweet of Agra made from squash).

Dinner was at the restaurant on the ground floor, Dawaat-e-Nawab and it was indeed a dawat fit for a Nawab (meal invitation for a Lord). We actually ended up in dining here on both the nights. If you're here, strongly recommend their Lucknowi boti kebab, meat martaban (goat meat cooked in clay pot), bawli handi (goat meat with potatoes) and a local delicacy gosht seviyan biriyani (unique biriyani made with rice vermicelli). Even the desserts were crazy good and strongly recommend their malpua with rabri, khajoor (date) halwa and paan (betel nut) ice cream. The one time DH got goat meat and sugar high! 😆 

Day 17: Wow Taj!

Chal Dhanno (Babloo in our case)! 😀

To beat the rather unbeatable heat and scorching July sun, we started at 7 00 in the morning and had the good luck of riding a rather decorated horse driven carriage as well. Of course there were big smiles on the kids faces. Tickets bought and already a little sweaty we were soon at the red-stoned Darwaza-i-Rauza (the main gate to the Taj Mahal). Much to the agony of the kids, DH decided to get a guide (agony as the guides spoke Hindi only) and soon we were the inside the gates thru which one glimpses the first of the white majesty, the Taj Mahal. 8 year old Abesh was captivated by the beauty of the Taj Mahal complete with it symmetry as you see it thru the gate.

Grand (pa's, kids and Taj) 😊

Soon we were at the pathway next to the fountains. I was 6 when I had last visited the Taj Mahal and the impression was such that I still remembered it. However, it was fascinating to now see it thru the eyes of my children. A little hot, we choose shady spots for quick clicks and rests as we stood soaking the pristine silent beauty of the Taj Mahal. We went inside the mausoleum to witness the Tombs of Mumtaz Mahal & Shah Jahan when even death couldn't do them apart.  The kids saw the river Yamuna for the first time and even saw some distant buffaloes cooling off in it. Some more clicks down and now the sun getting to a threatening point in the blue sky, we decided to call it a day and were in the hotel breakfast lounge soon. 

Information: there is a bit of a walk from the last vehicle drop off point to the ticket house. There are golf carts plying up and down for 20 INR. These are blessing in extreme weather. Plus, its easy to get an auto/tuk-tuk from the parking lot to whichever hotel you are staying in. 

We spent the rest of the day at the hotel, explored the Infiniti Pool which comes its own view of the Taj Mahal and just had a marvelous time with family. 

Day: Until Curtain Fall!

It's always a joy to explore the City of Joy, Kolkata. In the maze of memories and blur of days, I can no longer remember what happened on which day, so I'll just tiptoe thru all our fun adventures.

Alipore Zoo - a long living promise finally came to peace that day when we took the kids to DH's-all-time-favorite, Alipore Zoo and a roaring, pacing white tiger welcomed us. A big big mission accomplished. Being an old zoo the giraffe enclave was made in the late 1800's and has some unique animals like the gibbon monkey and to my happy surprise many many birds like peacocks, macaws, parakeets, hornbills and many more. 

Roastery Coffee House - Kolkata is now dotted pretty densely with these boutique coffee shops. Built on the ground floor or in the courtyard of old typically Kolkata style houses are these laid back coffee shops with their old school style decor. I was really smitten my one such name, The Red Bari (The Red House) but, couldn't find time enough. 

We did visit another charming little alcove, Roastery Coffee House. Their claim to fame is their cold cranberry coffee and OMG, delicious & refreshing it was. The kids enjoyed ice cream with brownies. Strong recommendation on this one. 

From the sizzling Sizzler & Cello Kebab at Peter Cat to the warm chicken rolls at Campari, from Indo-Chinese at Krystal Chopstick to authentic Bengali fish and rice at Ballygunj Place - Kolkata is a food haven for all. 

From having my first ever tea at Balwant Sing's to kids enjoying Darjeeling Tea at a little shop in Dakhshwinapan Shopping center. And the bravest of all, when my 8 year old Abesh at phuchka with water. I am glad they love Indian food and culture so much!

I could of course go on writing for a very long time but, with that I believe it's time to call it a blog! Until next time in India - to new places, adventures and memories!