Colombia ~ Tierra De Colores Y Cafe
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| Life is Rustic. Life is Colorful. Life is Hard, yet Beautiful. |
Why travel to Colombia? I was being questioned often. To us, travel is a concoction of practicalities and unstoppable desires. As a child, Colombia was soccer – from Higuita’s goal-keeping antics, Valderrama’s creative passing (and hairstyles) right to Andres Escobar losing his life over an own goal in 1994 World Cup. During adolescence, Colombia transformed to the land of magic realism courtesy Marquez – a land of vibrant colors where war-torn generals seek refuge, where unrequited love sweetens with time. In the post-office hour couch-potato avatar, Wagner Moura’s Pablo Escobar has been to almost every bedroom via Narcos. Colombia has metamorphosed with vivid imageries from childhood right to fatherhood and I like to believe that my setting foot here was only a natural progression. In addition, there are always practical reasons: a travel plan without added visa stamping requirements.
Welcome To Medellin: Mad in Medellin :)
It had been a fairly short and comfortable journey to Medellin from Panama City. Immigration & customs, both were smooth. We were met by a few ‘agents’ for taxi services and after some bargaining we got into an ‘airport’ taxi. It cost us 92,000 mil pesos.
Topic
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Info
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Additional Notes
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Places visited
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Cartagena, Salento, Medellin
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Weather
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Hot/Dry: Dec – Jan, Jul – Aug
Rainy: Apr – May, Oct – Nov
Best Months: Nov, Feb – drier weather, lesser crowds, good prices
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We travelled in end Nov. Got torrential rains in Medellin in the evenings & some very hot (highest 95F) days in Cartagena.
Carry rain gear.
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Currency
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Language
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Spanish
Translator Needed (Google translate)
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Basic Spanish knowledge comes handy (Can use duolingo)
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Visa Requirement
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Visa on arrival for U.S/Indian with valid US visa
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Safety
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Rating 2.5/5 (remain alert for pickpockets in populated areas)
1 – low safety, 5 – very safe
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We had a phone stolen in Metro de Medellin. Wear trousers with zipped pockets. Leave passports in hotel locker/reception safe.
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Cash in Hand Requirement
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Rating 2/5 (small business, towns, taxis need cash)
1 – cash driven, 5 – plastic
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100 million COP/day[2019]. Expect to pay cash even when it says credit card expected – always ask.
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Water
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Need to buy drinking water
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Uber available
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No
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Taxis are widely used
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Suggested Reads
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Flight Cost (from PDX)
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$550 per person [2019]
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PDX-PTY-MED; CTG-BOG-PDX. (UA)
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Must Try Foods
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Fruits (mango, pineapple, passion fruit)
Bandeja paisa
Trout (Salento)
Ceviche (Cartagena)
Empanada
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Coffee (drip, latte)
Coffee chains: Juan Valdez, Pasteleria: Santa Elena
Local Beer: Aguila, Club Colombia
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Child Friendly Bites
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Empanada (Potato/meat)
Pasta (very yummy! J)
Rice (veg/chicken/shrimp)
Fried Rice (our daughter’s favorite J)
Bread/pastries (any local pasteleria)
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Tipping Culture
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Tips mostly not expected
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Restaurants mostly include gratuity.
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Welcome To Medellin: Mad in Medellin :)
It had been a fairly short and comfortable journey to Medellin from Panama City. Immigration & customs, both were smooth. We were met by a few ‘agents’ for taxi services and after some bargaining we got into an ‘airport’ taxi. It cost us 92,000 mil pesos.
Tip: try avoiding these touts in blue shirts & ties who claim the only way to the city are the airport taxis. True Uber is illegal in Colombia, but, there were yellow city taxis a few lanes away at the airport – grab those. In most cases will be cheaper too!
Hotel Torre Poblado was our home for the next three nights. It’s a no frills little alcove in a great location. The hotel staff was very helpful, plus the room came with a little kitchenette. But, the absolute thing to write home about was their breakfast lounge on the 10th floor with the most prefect view ever! You can admire the entire city stretching out in front of you leading into the distant green hills – all while sipping great Colombian coffee & munching fresh pineapples and passion fruits. Cest la vie, my friend! J
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| The Senor's Eye View of Medellin |
For all foodies, do not miss a chance to chomp some sweet fried plantain when in Medellin. It was the yummiest amongst all other fried plantains I had in Colombia.
Day 1: The past, the present and the shopping
It was mid-afternoon by the time we got into our room which by the way came with an enormous balcony, much to the delight of the kids and also us. After some rest, we set out to explore the area around the hotel. I personally have a penchant for places that are a rhythmic blend between the past and the present. And Medellin is just that – old tailor, shoe repair and gift stores next to trendy electronic stores, retails and coffee shops.
We ambled around till we hit this amazing souvenir store, Nuestra Tienda Artesanal. If you are in the area do swing by this little treasure trove. The prices are great (actually cheapest in my entire trip in Colombia) and they have an amazing range of choice for all sorts of shoppers. Bags heavy with magnets, earrings and little what-nots, we stopped at the Tostao' Café & Pan. A very Starbucks-like coffee shop where we had some refreshing latte & the kids enjoyed the fruit filled croissants. Dinner was a chicken and rice take out from little eatery near-by.
Day 2: Some found, and then some lost
Highs – Museum of Antioquia, Café Botero, Local Metro Rides, Metrocable Rides
Lows – Mobile Pick-pocketed, Metrocable stuck airborne for 5 minutes due to thunderstorm
And this is how the day went.
We visited the famous Museum of Antioquia at the Plaza Botero. The plaza itself is a must visit – it’s absolutely spilling with life. People haggling over daily wares or simply hanging out with friends at the station stairs amidst the larger than life sculptures of Fernando Botero. The museum was a fun place to visit with Botero’s style of art being absolutely unique. The good thing was the entire museum was accessible by elevators, which is a must for parents pushing two strollers.
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| Love Him, Hate Him, Can't Ignore Him Pablo Escobar's Death by Botero |
Soon our bellies voiced their desperate emotions and we decided to hop into the Café Botero inside the Museum. The food was really good!!! Empanadas Tradicional (empanadas with potatoes), our first go at the Bandeja Paisa and the kids had Spagetti with Bolognese – and it was all a delight. We also ordered some coffee based dessert and would strongly recommend those (sorry, I don’t remember which one was it – was in a food coma you see).
We decided to ride the Metrocable (cable car/gondola) next and that’s when our luck soon turned sour. We got to the Acevedo Station & boarded a metrocable. About 5 minutes into the ride my husband realized he didn’t have his phone on him. We got off the next stop, searched everywhere only to realize it has indeed been pickpocketed while we were in the metro from Plaza Botero.
Tip: when you’re hands are full with kids, bags & strollers – either carry a zipped sling bag/pouch or wear zipped pockets for essentials like mobile, wallets & IDs – leave passport in hotel locker/hotel reception locker.
We spoke to the station master. Though sympathetic he wasn’t much help sadly. With a heavy heart we decided to take the next empty metrocable and just go finish the ride. That’s when our luck turned sour enough to curdle. The metrocable ride in no doubt is a fun, beautiful journey – but when you see it’s raining just don’t do it.
Tip & Warning: if rain is predicted, then avoid the metrocable completely.
Soon we noticed it was raining at a distance. Before long it hit our side too and with a crackling lighting the metrocables stopped moving. We were out there stuck for like 5 minutes. Finally and somehow we finished our ride. After much ado we called it day and got home more dismal than joyous – the kids of course were only the latter J.
Day 3: Up, up and Away!
Ask a 4-year old what they want to do & they always chose you worst fear: so my fearless 4-year old Rupkatha chose to do the Metrocable de Medellin. Yes, again! With spotless blue skies for as far as the eyes could see, we took a taxi around the city to the Acevedo Station. We took take the green line metrocable all the way to the enamoring Parque Arvi.
Warning: for Parque Arvi, do NOT get off at Santo Dominigo – just continue in the metrocable.
It’s a spectacular view from high up in the metrocable! The cherry on the cake is that it passes over Communes and you can see plenty of Graffitti Medellin is so famous for. Picture time! J
Parque Arvi itself is a touristy little village atop one of the highest hills around. The charming Mercado Arvi welcomes you with local hand-crafted wares. Foodies as we are, there were plenty of traditional grub to choose from. We grabbed a fruit bowl with golden-berries, guava & strawberries, a peasant food of rice, chorizo, beans & sweet fried plantain and some rejuvenating panella. It’s a great place to hang out with your family for a couple of hours.
Tip: altitude makes it chilly & windy, carry warm clothes!
Day 4: And so was our madness in Medellin!
All our bags are packed and we’re ready to go, the Taxi’s waiting outside our door as we quickly soaked in the amazing view from the lounge one last time!! This time we rode a yellow taxi, which costed us about 80,000 mil pesos to the airport. When travelling with kids, having about 1.5 hours in hand is fine at Medellin airport – enough to grab some coffee/snack and pass through all with no rush at all.
SALENTO
Boy oh boy, what a great place it was!! It was like looking at the most delicious scrumptious 5-layered cake ever, like ever! Layer 1: a patch of greenery with little birds fluttering around. Layer 2: colorful balconies, walls & flowers of hotels, hostels & some homes. Layer 3: the church tower & bell. Layer 4: the mighty tanned Andes basking in the warm Colombian sun. Layer 5: the blue skies dotted with fluffy little cotton clouds. All iced together in harmony, beauty, perfection and zen.
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| Where Time Stops and Peace Chimes |
Welcome to Salento – a colorful quaint little getaway amidst coffee plantations!
We landed at the little airport at Periera, where a ‘only’ Spanish speaking helpful Security personnel welcomes us with a warm smile. There were two ways to Salento: one, by taxi ($55); or by taxi-bus-taxi (about $18). We wanted to do the latter, but, being unable to communicate clearly we ended up in going all the way to Salento in a taxi. Something, honestly post two flights with two toddlers I wasn’t too unhappy about ;).
Warning: if you are unsure of your Spanish skills, use the translator – keeps confusions at bay!
Our hotel, Salento Pequeno Hotel was an exclusive four cottages only retreat in the sleepy little Salento. My husband (wisely J) chose this place as it was away from the hustle-bustle, at the brim of the town. Yet, it was just ten minutes away from the main Square. The hospitality & helpfulness of the hotel staff carried on from Medellin to Salento as well. Two middle aged ladies who used everything, from sign language to google translate to aid communications. Even though our check in time was 3:00 p.m., they let us early birds in at 1:30 p.m.. Happily, my sleeping 3 year-old peacefully continued his slumber.
Our hotel, Salento Pequeno Hotel was an exclusive four cottages only retreat in the sleepy little Salento. My husband (wisely J) chose this place as it was away from the hustle-bustle, at the brim of the town. Yet, it was just ten minutes away from the main Square. The hospitality & helpfulness of the hotel staff carried on from Medellin to Salento as well. Two middle aged ladies who used everything, from sign language to google translate to aid communications. Even though our check in time was 3:00 p.m., they let us early birds in at 1:30 p.m.. Happily, my sleeping 3 year-old peacefully continued his slumber.
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| Only in Salento do Rainbows come from Radio-Towers |
Day 1: An evening in Salento
Have you ever walked in the rain, with no hurries, no worries, nowhere to get to, holding your baby’s little hands and a big smile pasted on your face for no practical reason? No, you haven’t? Oh, then you must and what better place to do so than in Salento. Being in Salento is like being inside a big box of crayons – it is so colorful! My kids were happily playing “my hotel, your hotel”. A blue one meant it was the boy’s & a pink one meant it was the girl’s (good guess…I have one of each :D)
We stopped at the Supercocora there to pick up some water, snacks, pasta and you know stuff. Luckily, out hotel room had a little furnished kitchenette. This gave us a good break from eating out constantly. As a mother, when your kids are on a restaurant spree, spaghetti in red sauce or even instant ramen serves as a good, healthy, inexpensive mommy cooked meal.
Day 2: A coffee a day keeps the grumpy away!
Unlike other horseback & camelback (Giza, Egypt) rides we’ have been on before; here not only do you ride the horse but, also navigate it. Our then 4-year old Rupkatha rode her horse like a little boss. Not once falling and was super proud & gleeful at the end. So yes – it is absolutely child safe (Warning: however, I would not recommend letting a child under 3 ride alone – our 3 year old son was riding with me & he dozed off). We rode with the company, Cabalgatas Caminas Trochas de Salento. Diego, our guide was gentle, helped us ample with horse riding & rode beside our little girl all the time.
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| BRAVE |
The coffee estate we visited was: Finca Las Acacias J. The 45 minutes ride to the estate was straight out of a Enid Blyton book. Farms, farmhouses & boutique hotels flanked on one side; and tall eucalyptus trees looking yonder at the undulating landscape on the other side – mesmerizing, beautiful!
Once at the estate, we rested a little at the coffee shop-cum-sitting area-cum-viewing deck. Strict as I am, I would grade an A+ to our guide – he was funny, explained well & gave us time to explore around. The kids loved the hike amidst plants of all sorts – banana, ginger, garlic and flowers to name a very few. Listening to the story about the journey of a coffee bean, we journeyed through the fields. Finally, came the most exciting part – coffee picking. Remember, pick only the deep red ones. They are ripe and ready to be drank (well, almost :D). At the end of the trip, we were all offered a very aromatic and delicious cup of coffee – on the house!
Tip: they sell locally grown, picked, washed, dried coffee beans & ground coffee -we got some!
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| Where the earth has music for those who will listen |
Our hungry bellies knocked the doors of La Fonde de los Arrieros (location link goes here). We tried the Platano Frito con Hogao e Chorizo (tomato salsa & crushed chorizo on fried plantain) and Empanadas con Carne (empanadas with meat). Both were very good and delicious. The empanadas were a hit with the kids and were gone in minutes.
Tip: when travelling to a new country, always encourage your child to experiment. Choose a simple food with like 2 – 4 ingredients, usually goes down well the children.
Day 3: The hills are alive at the Valle of Cocora
After a quick and home cooked breakfast, we boarded one of the famous Willy’s jeeps – the Salento way getting to the valley. It was fun & comfortable – and blimey, costed just $2.5 to and fro for the adults (8 mil Colombian pesos). Once at the jeep stop at the Valle, it’s a short hike of about 15 – 20 minutes to get away from the maddening crowd.
Information: 1. there are horse ride options there as well
2. many restaurants with varied menus including the locally grown fresh trout
3. one can visit the farm where the trout are cultivated
The Valle de Cocora is carpeted with lush green meadows dotted with wild flowers and towering Cocora trees. And if you’re lucky an occasional hummingbird or toucan may pay visit to you too. It’s simply magical! We got tickets into the Tres Mirador – costed just 4 mil pesos ($1.5 per adult). They had a Willy’s Jeep all decked up for selfies. You could picnic at the garden at the entrance or could go up one of the many hiking trails. We chose one which took us up to a hills top with a big butterfly swing. My daughter absolutely loved it and honesty, me too! J Often, I’ve heard people say, ‘being one with nature’ – flying in that swing I finally knew what they meant. Moving on, we crossed a fence that led to some green pastures where there was horses grazing and trotting around. The kids were very happy with all the space to run around. I got a much needed little zen time! Today, back home I can still feel the zen within me when I think of that hilltop and the view of the Cocora trees all around – indeed magical it was.
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| The hills are alive with the Sound of Music |
Day 4: Just relax and accept the crazy!
That last day in Salento! It was a lazy & relaxing day for the kids and me. My George Mallory-like husband decided to go for the 12 miles long hike back at the Valle of Cocora.
Tip: what I call as a “relax day” is a must or at least highly recommended when traveling with children. For under 2 years, two busy days & one relaxed, for 2 – 5 year old, three days busy & one relaxed. Let them rest & relax for half a day – they will rejuvenate for the next few days again.
In the evening, we went out exploring the town Square and souvenir shopping down Carre 6.
Warning: even if the shop says card accepted, always ask before shopping & find out the minimum for card payments. Credit card = Tarjeta.
Day 5: The wheels on the bus go round-and-round
Cometh are last few hours in Salento. To sport the kids we decided to brave the bus to Armenia. I don’t remember the exact number, but, it was about 4000 pesos per person (for kids too unless you want them to sit on your lap) ONLY all the way. It was just an hour long comfortable journey with ample space to spread your legs – highly recommend this.
Information: the bus takes you the Terminal Station in Armenia, where you would need to take Taxi to the Armenia Airport (about another 10,000??? pesos).
CARTAGENA
Imagine if life was waking up to a nice hot breakfast, lazing your morning in the blue Caribbean seas, having a hearty lunch of fresh ceviche, then strolling amongst Colonial buildings in the afternoon, watching the evening sun set behind historic canons and finally spending you night partying on a bus as you tour the city. Nope, you’re not dead & not yet in heaven.
Welcome to Cartagena! The party city, the walled city – literally a city that never sleeps! J
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| Cartagena, the box of Crayons |
Palette pampering must-haves: fresh coconut water, mangoes, ceviche, fresh breads & buns from local bakeries.
Day 1: Oh my sleeping child!
Due to some logistic changes at the last hour we ended up in staying at three different hotels in Cartagena. All awesome in their own ways.
We reached Cartagena at about 8:00 p.m. and went straight to our airport hotel, Hotel Boutique Varanasi. It was just a 5 minutes of walk from the airport. The room was very spacious & had a decent hot breakfast. A few eateries & plenty of super markets nearby. Enough for a quick stay near the hotel. Only glitch, the hotel staff though wasn’t rude but, was not very helpful or informative. Also, there were no elevators to the 1st floor where our room was in.
Day 2:
Our first job was to check into our second one, Hotel Estelar Oceania, where the beach was just 30 seconds away. The hotel staff was very helpful and had good knowledge of the area. For families travelling with children, this is a great abode – with lots restaurants nearby, little stores to buy water/snacks from & the beach so close.
Tip: If you’re staying a quick night – pack smart. Keep night clothes, a change of clothes, medicines, toothbrushes, some snack right on the top. Keeps extra packing at bay.
When packing you know the feeling ‘I’ve forgotten something’. Well, for me it was swim-wear. Recommended by the hotel staff, we shopped at Tienda Santa in old town for cheap steals.
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| VIBGYOR shades! |
We spent our morning walking around Calle Angosto, an exquisite street shaded with cheerful colorful umbrellas. After lunch we returned to our hotel and a hopeful mother tried to put over excited toddlers to nap – mission failed! :D So of course the Caribbean Sea it was. As a mother, I happily sat at the beach watching the kids play & little pink waves crashing into the sand.
Tip: once the kids are like 3 plus years – they sometimes fight their day naps! Let them play around & just put them to bed early at night – works for all!
Fun-soaked, the dinner bells started jangling in our tummies & we chose the not-fancy-at-all Canaflecha, just 5 mins from the hotel on foot. We’d ordered some peperoni pizza for the kids - soft & yummy. Their ceviche was really good, tart & onion-y. We’d also ordered a fried seafood platter (I don’t remember the exact name now) – that was just about OK, a little too dry. The lady serving us even put on Peppa Pig on the TV – bless the kind soul.
Day 3: Just another brick in the ‘wall’
And yet one more time, our first job was to check into our third hotel – Hotel San Felipe. A century old hotel, complete with imperial structure & high ceilings. It’s just a minute walk from the Walled City entrance & 30 seconds from Calle Agosto.
Information: the locale around the hotel was noisy with music happening till 4 am. My kids slept through it – but in case you or your kid are very light sleepers – it’ll be a miss but, maybe check into someplace a little farther away from the old town.
Well, in all honestly our first job that day was to hit the ocean – again! And what a picturesque sight it was. Fishermen in their boats coming in with their catch for the day, pelicans & seagulls gobbling some, the skies a mythical golden.
We lunched at a bistro named, Stefano’s Bistro. In one word – it was perfect! Ceviche in lemon juice, ceviche in coconut lemon juice, shrimp fried rice, panella, coconut flan – just eat it all! We liked it so much we went there thrice!
It was late afternoon by the time we finished our lunch and we decided to explore the Walled city. It was straight from the palette of the rainbow maker. It is incredible how the Colonial structures from the 1500’s are intact, with only the interiors renovated to become exotic hotels, restaurants and stores. A must-do thing inside is a click with famous fruit sellers wearing vivid & colorful traditional attire (about 5,000 mil pesos per Colombian lady).
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| When Pirate Drake's House Spied on the Little FruitSellers! (PS: the orange house on the left) |
Plaza Bolivar with its pigeons is great place for kids to run around and you to just soak in the history & life around you. Palaceo de la Inquisition screams of slavery, punishments & horrors from the 1600’s. I am sensitive to such issues & decided to skip touring this one. My husband toured it & said it is indeed one for the brave heart but, a good museum. (entrance fee: $14 per person). Next we went to the biggest cathedral there, Cathedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandria. A serene, beautiful church with historic paintings & sculptures. Opposite the church is the San Alberto Coffee – a little coffee shop famous for its most awarded coffee. We tried there café con latte frio (frappe) & café espresso – not really out of the world, but, tick the box if you’re there. Being mango lovers we stumbled upon the sweetest mangoes we’d had in a very long time. Tired & happy we came back to slumber.
There are some free museums – Museum of Emerald, Zenu Museum of Gold - both are good, didn’t take more than 15 – 20 minutes each. The Museum of Chocolate is nothing but a chocolate store wasn’t great at all.
Tip: there are volunteers who offer food for the pigeons in exchange of donations. Paying about 1000 – 2000 mil pesos for one packet of food is good enough.
Day 4: Cannons and cocktails
As Willy Wonka said, “Then came a very hot day & melted his palace”. Phew it was exactly that. It was about a 100 F (38 C) with the feels like being a bunch of degrees more. Since, it was still morning we decided to explore the Walled City more – bad decision to go out in 100 F, especially take the kids out. We did some quick shopping at the Las Bovedas and spent the rest of the day in.
Tip: Las Bovedas has a good line of gift stores – and you CAN ask for discounts.
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| Sip the ambience! |
In the evening, when it was cooler we hung out at the Café del Mar – it’s a must-visit in Cartagena. It’s those rare times when life becomes perfect as you watch the sun set amongst canons and crashing waves yonder, cool evening breeze flirting with your hair, sipping cocktails and munching on fried plantain.
Information: this is an open air bar, very kid friendly. They even had a little mocktails menu – our daughter loved their fruit punch.
Day 5: Grab a drink beside me down in the islands
It was the day of Isla del Rosario – utopia found! Ideal getaway for families with kids. They had a 1.5 feet little swimming pool for the little ones & both my kids literally spent their entire time in it. You can dip in the sea with colorful fish waving at you – we saw Dory, swordfish, yellow fins & plenty other. Mother to mother – kids in the pool, husband watching over them – grab a pina colada from the bar and relax in the hammock while watching the pristine nature around you. J
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| Blue or Green? Mindless thoughts from the hammock! |
We toured with the company Isla del Sol, which is basically the company that owns the resort on the island. It was about 90,000 mil pesos for the adults, about 60,000 mil pesos for our 4 year old & free for our 3 year old. Hotel pick up, boat rides, welcome fruits & lunch all included. Snorkeling, open bar, lobster lunch, aquarium visit - all available for additional cost.
Information: you can do a day tour or stay as long as want to at the resort.
Tip: the boat ride back was rather bumpy – so board first & grab a seat at the back.
We were back by 5ish! Thanks to my husband’s spontaneity we hopped on the hop on hop off bus for the next 1.5 hours – it’s a great way to tour the city. We saw the Castel San Felipe, something we has missed due to the prior heat wave.
Tip: tired kid? Too hot? Just get onto one of these buses and let the kid nap – we did that on our second day letting them rest while we enjoyed the tour and the view – win win! J
Day 6: Curtain fall!
We checked out for the very last time in Colombia! L Traversed the Walled City one last time & toured in the hop on hop off bus one last time.
When flying with kids, having about 1.5 hours is sufficient for Cartagena airport. Expect queues, but, they move fast.
And the curtain falls to our good time in Colombia! J
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