Japan: Those 10 Glorious Day

We were first time parents. We had no idea whatsoever what it took to travel with a baby. But, to render the beckoning to travel afar couldn’t remain unanswered for long.  So, when we planned to take our 9 months old Rupkatha to India, we simply extended our transit in Japan from 4 hours to 10 days. Seeing Mt. Fuji, savoring world class sushi and to see the land of Memories of a Geisha, we set forth!

My Little Kawai! 

Day 1: Robes and Slippers! 

We reached Tokyo late into the evening. Everything worked like clockwork here. No hiccups. The airport staff was very helpful and volunteered to push our trolley when they saw we had a baby with us. 

Soon we were at the airport hotel for the night. It was my first time to find night robes, slippers and other such essentials! I later understood that all Japanese hotels have this, big or small. 

Rupkatha stayed awake playing for a bit, it was a new place for her too after all. Tired from our journey and excitement of the adventured ahead bubbling within us, we soon called it a night.

Information: tipping culture exists, but they respectfully accept any denomination. 

 Day 2: All aboard the Shinkansen 

Rupkatha was slightly jetlagged and woke up like 7ish am. No complains at all, we strolled around the hotel lobby and grabbed some Shokupan toast (Japanese bread roll). We boarded the bus that took us to the train station. We got our tickets to the ride in the Shinkanshen to Kyoto. 

Information: you can buy the Japan Rail Pass overseas only from certified agents. Once in Japan, you can pick it up from Japan Rail station with proper proof of identification. We were misinformed and tried buying it at the Shinkanshen train station, but, could not. If you plan to ride the Shinkanshen just once or twice it’s ok to buy train tickets; if more then, get the pass.

Aboard one of the fastest trains in the world, it was a moment of adrenal rush for sure. Well, you don’t feel a lurching motion or anything, it’s very smooth and pleasant ride. Soon we were at the Kyoto Station. It was quite a bit of a walk from the platform to the taxi stand. Though I don’t remember losing our way, it’s full of signs. We were contemplating taking the bus versus a taxi as we weren’t sure how expensive the taxi would be. But I won the argument and we chose the comfort of a taxi journey as we had our big suitcases with us. (It was about $17 for a 30 minutes’ drive in 2015).

 Serenity and Divinity at the Yasaka Shrine 

We reached our Airbnb in Kyoto, Higashiyamaku Kitakino Motomachi. A compact cozy little apartment on third floor (yes, the building had an elevator). The Japanese culture calls for taking off your shoes at the entrance of the house. The homeowners had provided with lots ornate slippers for our use. From the balcony attached, we could see the top of the Yasaka Shrine nearby.

Information: the apartments, hotels in Japan are small. It will have all the possible amenities crammed into the tiny space. Just not much space to run around. But they are very cozy let me tell you that.

For lunch we had picked pre-packed bento box like things, which consisted of rice, meat, tempura, sushi and narutomaki (can be consumed cold or heated). Soon we were strolling down streets of Kyoto, exchanging smiles with the locals as we headed towards the Yasaka Shrine. Built over a thousand years ago, Yasaka turns into an ethereal beauty when the hundreds of lamps are lit up in the evening.

Once back, the jetlagged Rupkatha slept around 5:30. My husband headed out again exploring Kyoto and to get some grub back home; whistle I unpacked and settled us down for the next 3 days.

 Day 3: The Good Luck Charm

With a time difference of 17 hours, we were of course jetlagged. But as I always say make it a strength. We would be up by 5 am having tea and breakfast; and as soon as the 9 months old Rupkatha would wake up at about 7 am-ish, I would feed her, dress her, pack her in the baby sling and we’d be on the roads before long.

Quick mention to our breakfast which consisted of matcha tea, matcha cookies, matcha cake and bento boxes, a breakfast for the blue blooded!

We took the bus to Kiyomizu dera, one of the most famous and significant Buddhist temples in Kyoto. We reached early enough to beat all the store and eateries to their opening hour of the day. It’s quite a little hike up from the bus stop to the shrine atop the hill. Serene and pristine, Kiyomizu has a charm that grows on you as you amble across the corridors and patios of the ancient shrine. I remember lots of high school children also were visiting the shrine the same morning. They were all so quiet, poised and well disciplined – a snippet from the life in Japan!

Fall Colors at Kiyomizu Dera

Since, we were there in early November, so we got see some pretty fall colors; especially on our way out through the gardens and tea-tasting houses, it was magical! While returning all the stores has opened and this was our first time tasting Otabe, a Japanese sweet made with steamed rice tortillas stuffed with red bean paste. My husband loved it so much that we even took some to India while leaving Japan – so don’t miss this.

We got a little souvenir, a good luck charm for children at the shrine. It now hangs from the rear-view mirror of my car reminding me of the glorious days!

Next, we re-visited the Yasaka Shrine, walked around the pathways and admired the lake next to it. We permitted our taste buds to be adventure more and enjoyed Takoyaki (fried Octopus balls on a stick) – a very popular street food in Japan. 😊

We stopped a 7-eleven (yes, thank your stars, they have 7-elevens in Japan) to use the ATM and grab some quick grub.

Warning: do not get sushi from a 7-eleven in Japan. Go for stuff like sandwiches, they taste good, the sushi sadly doesn’t!

Moving on….and this is where we took a wrong decision. Given one of the members on our team was just 9 months old, we should have called it a day there. But we didn’t and pushed our luck. Well, things certainly didn’t turn sour but weren’t the best either!

Hailed a cab to our final shrine of the day, Kinka kuji. Also popularly known as the Golden Pavilion Temple, this one is simply a stunner! Built in 1397, it was a villa and later converted into a Buddhist shrine. The red leaves all around, the blue lake it is built atop and then the golden shrine itself – it’s a such a beautiful medley of colors, history, architecture and art! By now, Rupkatha was getting quite restless and we decided to call it a day and headed back home.

Day 4: A ten thousand orange gates

As before, we were out on the roads of Kyoto early morning and took the subway to our first destination of the day, Fushimi Inari. This is the temple of the Fox God! The story goes that back in the 900’s foxes were considered as holy messengers and key bearers to the rice granaries. There are massive twin statues of the Fox Gods as you enter Inari.

A Little bit of Orange 

But the part I found worth writing home about were the series of orange gates covering the entire 4 kms walk up to the top and back. It is estimated that there are about (mostly over) ten thousand such gates! You must, absolutely must do this walk as much as your legs and lungs permit. I personally couldn’t do the whole hike as I was carrying Rupkatha is the baby sack, but my husband went to the top and back! And don’t rush, let yourself absorb the place and the place absorb you.

Once back at the bottom, we rambled along the busy street outside. Elderly ladies selling miniature Fox God figurines, shopkeepers enticing you with tsujiura senbei (fortune cookies). We stopped at a little alcove called Inafuku for some lunch. Typical in Japanese culture this place was void of tables and chairs and instead had low tables and mats to sit on. This turned out to be quite a boon as our 9 months old Rupkatha rolled around happily before promptly tucking in on Don-buri (a rice, eggs and vegetables bowl) – oh how she had enjoyed herself! 

Learning from the day before we kept the number of places to visit to two today and set out for the Nijo Castle. Built in the 1600’s it bespeaks of Japanese art, paintings and the Japanese lifestyle and protocols of the royalties.

Information: the entire path is covered with little pebbles and it is impossible to push an umbrella stroller on it. We had the same issue at Kinka kuji as well. So, be prepared to hold you baby. We had the baby carrier/sling/sack – it was super useful.

Back home, we gave Rupkatha time enough to do what a 9 months old baby does with his or her time! 😉 Now this is a meal I must mention. My husband would bring me back dinner after his evening expeditions and almost every single time it was Chahan (Japanese fried rice with eggs and peas) – it is so delicious that I am hungry again as I type.

Information: Japanese foods like, Chahan, Don-buri was very child friendly with no raw ingredients and cooked well enough for a child to chew and digest. Rupkatha was 9 months old when she had all these and never fell sick!

Day 5: Zen!

Zen among Soundscapes of Japan 

It was our last day in Kyoto! We visited the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove. To me, this has been the most peaceful place I’ve ever been to. The rustling bamboo leaves with the wind playing throw the tall bamboo trees creates the most divine sound. It is also a part of the Soundscape of Japan! There are quite a few trails to explore the area. We did a short hike and made our way to the Tenryu-ji Temple, and the zen just followed us. It’s a beautiful temple set next to a pool and the bamboo grove. It was so peaceful that Rupkatha also slept peacefully all the way through. 😊

After a quick lunch we came back home for some quick rest. Soon, we dolled up our girl in a traditional Kimono for the kids and set out to do a photo shoot for her. That was a fun experience as we got to interact with the locals, who took pictures with Rupkatha and let us take pictures of them holding her. The people of Kyoto are warm, friendly and try their best to communicate with you.

While we were clicking at the Yasake shrine, we got some vibrant green matcha ice cream and ended up with a rather disgruntled 9 months old baby when she herself finished the ice cream! 😊

 Day 6: The almighty Mt. Fuji!

The Almighty

Tearfully we bid adieu to Kyoto and boarded our train to travel back to Tokyo. Luckily on our way we got a splendid view of the Mt. Fuji. It stood their white and serene plotting to vent whenever it wishes to. It’s rather thrilling when something you’re used to seeing in textbooks stands right in front of you – a big check box ticked off.

By early afternoon we were in Tokyo and meandering though concrete giants rode a taxi all the way to our hotel, Park Hayatt Tokyo. No, we didn’t just book a super expensive hotel. Two nights came free with a credit card my husband had applied for and hence the stay! 😊 But it was one amazing stay! We were on something beyond the 50^th floor and the view from there was more than amazing. It looked over the Yoyogi park and entire Tokyo skyline – splendid!

Later that evening we just strolled around the city center gaping the mere enormity of the high rises and enjoying local life in Tokyo.

 Day 7: Feed. Sleep. Repeat!

Rupkatha was rather tired that day and decided to just sleep and sleep and sleep all through the day and the night. And of course, we let her do just that.

Tip: always have rest days for kids under 2 years. It helps them (and the parents) restore their energies and makes the travel of the next few days very smooth.

I enjoyed my staycation at the Hayatt soaking in the amazing view. My husband went out to explore the neat Yoyogi park and the Harajuku area! He said both were rather nice so I would say don’t miss those. We also explored the hotel a little, the roof top gym and pool which has a 360° view of Tokyo’s skyline!

Loose your way in the Yoyogi Park

Day 8: Matchbox Life

Now, our two free nights of staying at the Hayatt were over but, the explorations were not. So, we travelled to our abode for the last two nights in Japan, Hotel Huamamatsucho. It was the perfect matchbox life! Tokyo with its high population density is crammed for space and this hotel was right up to speed with that. But the room had every amenity you could ask for and more – coffee machine, a kettle, a microwave, a TV and of course ample pairs of slippers.

Seeking Blessings at Sensoji 

After dumping our bags, we went out to explore the famous Sensoji Temple, the oldest temple in Tokya built around 650 AD. The temple itself was majestic and beautiful. I also remember the bustling path that led from the road to the temple entrance. It was flanked with little souvenir stores selling everything from fans to teacup, from chop sticks to t shirts! And most of it was at affordable prices.

Post that I finally got go inside a ramen eatery in Japan! Honestly, I don’t remember the name of it. Just looked up something on yelp on the fly and went for it. Japan is dotted with little restaurants that just sell ramen and am sure most of them are great! I found it rather intriguing the way it works there – there’s a big machine (like a vending machine) where there are pictures and everything and you chose that what you want, pay, take the token, hand it over the person busing the place, grab a place and before long a scrumptious steaming bowl of ramen will be set in front of you! It is an experience you shouldn’t miss!

Bellies full, we made our way to the Tokyo Imperial Palace, the gardens and the moat around it. We walked around marveling at the architecture and pleasing gardens all around us. The Emperor of Japan and his family reside at the Fukiage Palace within the ground – rather thrilling ain’t it.

With that we called it a day and came back to climb into our beds and slumber into a good night’s sleep!

Day 9: Shopping!

Once Upon a Time...

My husband went out to visit the now closed Tsukiji Fish Market and enjoyed some fresh sushi and sashimi at a restaurant called Chuo-Ku right in the heart of the fish market. Not being a very ‘fishy’ person, I passed on this one willingly.Once he was back, I convinced him to take me back to Sensoji to shop, shop and shop some more. I remember picking up lots of chop sticks, teacups and t shirts for friends and family in India and back home in Portland.

Tip: shopping wise, I found Tokyo to be cheaper than Kyoto. So, like me if you have lots of folks to shop for, shop smart in Tokyo.

 On our way back we stopped to check out the gigantic Tokyo Tower! It’s more fun at night when it is lit up with thousands and thousand of lights.

Day 10: Curtain Fall

Now as I sit at my desk typing away my memories, I don’t remember much from this day. In a way that’s good right, dear reader as it means nothing bad happened. Packed our stuff, hailed a taxi and before long were though the security gates at the airport. I remember picking up packs of flavored Otabe, matcha cookies and matcha cakes for our families back in India.

And so was Japan – honestly, an experience this blog doesn’t justice to!

The Giant!